Simon Gietl, Ines Papert make first free ascent of Lumina on Wildgall

Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol and Ines Papert from Germany have freed Lumina, the route Gietl established solo on 12 April 2025 on Wildgall / Monte Collaspro (3273m). The demanding mixed climb on the third-highest mountain in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps was established withou bolts and initially graded M7 A0; after the free ascent, the 300-meter line has now been given an overall grade of M8-.

The route follows the "beautiful pillar" up the northeast face on this wild, rough, and exposed mountain – one of the most serious and forbidding peaks in the entire Rieserferner group. This striking mountain is considered a small but refined mixed climbing area, serving ambitious alpinists as an exceptional playground for modern mixed climbing.

Lumina provides varied climbing on predominantly good rock, which is however fragile in some sections, with typical crack systems and some loose blocks. During his first ascent, Gietl used only three pegs and one pecker, which were left in-situ. For a repeat, he recommends two sets of Totem Cams, small micro-cams, and a #3 Friend.

Gietl, who led all pitches except the third, stated, "I was overjoyed that Ines supported me and was motivated to join me." According to the 41-year-old, the route requires extensive alpine experience and careful assessment of conditions. Given the pronounced rockfall hazard, attempting the route is only advisable in cold, stable conditions.