738 News found

On 30/06/2010 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer carried out the first repeat of Pan Aroma 8c, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites

Two excellent Melloblockers share their impressions about Melloblocco 2010: Nico Favresse who visited the Val di Mello for the first time and Adam Ondra who won the special "Mello" boulders for the third year running.

Young Adam Ondra is visiting Britain, in particular the climbs at Malham Cove and Kilnsey where he has climbed and attempted some of the hardest routes in the country established by Steve McClure.

In March an international group of climbers including Leopoldo Faria from Portugal forged a 400m line up poor rock on El Gigante in Mexico.

At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.

CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986

Even if spring is at the doorstep, it's worth analysing the climbs of Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, who this winter carried out the first ascent in Patagonia together with Roger Schäli before repeating the famous Phantom der Zinner on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites together with Marc...

Tony Lourens, the editor of SA Mountain Sport Magazine, shares the delights of rock climbing around Cape Town at the tip of Africa.

Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Takargo (6771 meters) via its East Face in Nepal.

On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was won by the Weger and Gross. The extenuating and freezing...

The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...

On 15 February Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner carried out the first free ascent of "Gorillas im Nebel" (120m, M10/WI6) in the Zillertal, Austria.

Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.

Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.

In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).

On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.

On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate the lifeless body.