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Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
08/03/2010 - Competitions
Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was...
When icefalls crack
25/02/2010 - Alpinism
When icefalls crack
The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
Gorillas im Nebel, new mixed route in the Zillertal, Austria
18/02/2010 - Alpinism
Gorillas im Nebel, new mixed route in the Zillertal, Austria
On 15 February Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner carried out the first free ascent of "Gorillas im Nebel" (120m, M10/WI6) in the Zillertal, Austria.
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by  Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
03/02/2010 - Climbing
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
07/01/2010 - Alpinism
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate...
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told...
Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
08/12/2009 - Alpinism
Leichtfried and Purner do the Moonwalk, the longest icefall in Austria
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have carried out the first ascent Moonwalk WI6/M7, at 1000m the longest icefall in Austria.
Targassonne bouldering in France
01/12/2009 - Climbing
Targassonne bouldering in France
One of the most important bouldering areas in Europe is located close to the small village of Targassonne in the French Pyrenees. Electra Brunialti and Enea Colnago introduce these beautiful granite boulders.
Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
02/11/2009 - Climbing
Greenland climbing Plaisir 2009
In July Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Daniele Bernasconi established two new routes around Disko Island, Qioqe Peninsula, Greenland
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
13/10/2009 - Alpinism
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower - climbing history and Alexander Huber interview
The history of Eternal Flame and an interview with Alexander Huber after the first free ascent of the route which climbs the Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
06/10/2009 - Alpinism
Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
Interview with Martin and Florian Riegler after their climbing trips to the Bugaboos, Canada, where they carried out the first ascent of "The flying penguin" (300m, 5.12b)on the South Face of Pigeon Feathers.
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers on Trango Towers
01/10/2009 - Alpinism
Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers on Trango Towers
Between 11 and 14 August 2009 the German brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber carried out the first redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary route up the S Buttress of Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan. The route had been established...

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