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Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
01/02/2016 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed...
Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
28/01/2016 - Alpinism
Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
On 26 January 2016 at Bus del Quai di Iseo (Italy) Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a drytooling climb graded D13+.
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
15/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
14/01/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: team join forces on Kinshofer route. Nardi and Bielecki ascend but are stopped by fall at 5800m
The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek...
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
12/01/2016 - Alpinism
Gigi La Trottola, new Mulaz climb in the Dolomites by Baù, Migliorini, Zaccaria
The report by Alessandro Baù who, in summer 2015 together with Claudio Migliorini and Giovanni Zaccaria, made the first ascent of Gigi La Trottola (IX, 450m) up the west face of Mulaz, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
Kuffner ridge, scaling Mont Blanc's beauty and history
27/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kuffner ridge, scaling Mont Blanc's beauty and history
The Kuffner Ridge (also known as the Frontier Ridge), one of the classic and most beautiful ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, described by mountain guide Thomas Scalise Meynet.
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
18/12/2015 - Alpinism
Chloë, new icefall at Vallone del Grauson, Cogne, Italy
On 15/12/2015 The mountain guides Ezio Marlier and Thomas Scalise Meynet, together with Roger Bovard made the first ascent of Chloë (M6 WI 4 II), a new, beautiful and difficult ice climb in vallone del Grauson (Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.. Meynet reports about the ascent, tells the story of Chloë...
Jacopo Larcher repeats Psychogramm 8b+ trad in Austria
16/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Psychogramm 8b+ trad in Austria
At the Bürser Platte in Voralberg, Austria, Jacopo Larcher has repeated Psychogramm, the trad climb graded 8b+.
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
11/12/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.
Sogni di Gloria on Punta Angelo, Adamello - Presanella
08/12/2015 - Alpinism
Sogni di Gloria on Punta Angelo, Adamello - Presanella
The report by Francesco Groppelli about Sogni di Gloria (M4, 360m), a possible new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Punta Angelo (Adamello - Presanella massif) climbed on 29/11/2015 together with Maurizio Piller Hoffer.
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
07/12/2015 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites, in memory of the late Andrea Zambaldi.
Yosemite Secret Passage repeated by Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus
03/12/2015 - Climbing
Yosemite Secret Passage repeated by Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus
British rock climbers Pete Whittaker and Dan McManus have made the first repeat of The Secret Passage, the 5.13c (8a+) climb on El Capitan established ground-up in 2008 by Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva.
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).