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Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
08/06/2016 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, its climbing and the video Luce senza memoria
Climbing video: Maurizio Oviglia introduces his video of Luce senza memoria, the long traverse around Pedra Longa in Sardinia, first climbed in 1981 by Marco Bernardi and Alessandro Gogna.
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...
Sport climbing: tie a knot in the end of the rope!
31/05/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing: tie a knot in the end of the rope!
We have received the following appeal by the French Alpine Club section Causses et Cévennes that manages the Gorges du Tarn cliff reminding all climbers to tie a knot in the end of the tope before starting climbing a sport route.
Monte Argentario - via dello Spigolo (Canne d'organo)
27/05/2016 - Alpinism
Monte Argentario - via dello Spigolo (Canne d'organo)
The report of the recent ascent of via dello Spigolo (Canne d’organo) at Costa della Scogliera, Monte Argentario, by Emiliano Cupellaro, hailed as possibly the most beautiful grade III and IV climbing in the Mediterranean.
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
25/05/2016 - Climbing
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
In autumn 2015 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Traverso al Cielo, a new multi-pitch climb up the South face of Peitlerkofel, Dolomites. Simon Kehrer reports.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
Mummy heads into the mountains
09/05/2016 - Alpinism
Mummy heads into the mountains
Although Mother’s Day was yesterday, today we’re publishing this short and beautiful write-up by Federica Maslowsky who reminds us what it’s like to be a mother (and alpinist). Long live mothers, every day!
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
06/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located in the mountains, but inside a mountain, namely in the...
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
02/05/2016 - Climbing
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
British rock climber James McHaffie has made the first ascent of House of Talons, an E9 6c on Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, Wales.
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
Federica Mingolla reports of her 20/03/2016 ascent, together with Andrea Gaddi and Luca Schiera, of the classic multi-pitch rock climb Delta Minox up Pilastro del Scingino, Cavalcorto, Val Masino, Italy, established on 4 September 1988 by Tarcisio Fazzini, Livio Gianola, Sabina Gianola and Norberto Riva.
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Bilibino big wall climbing in Siberia
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Bilibino big wall climbing in Siberia
The video of Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbing new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Siberia, Russia.
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
08/04/2016 - Climbing
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
On April 4, 2016 British climber Paul Pritchard summited the Totem Pole, the amazing obelisk in Tasmania where he suffered a nigh fatal fall in 1998. As a result of that incident Pritchard was left partially paralysed and now, 18 years later, his ascent celebrates a conquest and circle that...
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
08/04/2016 - Alpinism
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
On 16/02/2016 Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Freit dl mond (120m, M7, VI+), a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites.
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
29/03/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
On the East Face of Garden of Dionysus above Leonidio in Greece the Italian climbers Dimitri Anghileri, Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have opened Fuori di Zucca, a new 155m multi-pitch sports climb graded 7c+/8a (7b obligatory). The report by Dimitri Anghileri.

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