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Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
16/02/2016 - Climbing
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
Two new sports climbs by Luca Zardini: "La lavagna" (8c) and "Attila" (8b+) at Lavagna del Col Drusciè (Lago Ghedina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites). Put in other words, Luca "Canon" Zardini and the never-ending school of rock climbing. The report by Luca Zardini.
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
12/02/2016 - Alpinism
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
During the summer 2015 Ulrich Viertler and Raffaele Sebastiani made the first ascent of "Die Leiden des Jurgen Werther" (250m, VIII+/IX- , R3, III:EX), a new alpine trad climb up Punta del Pin, Prags Dolomites.
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
01/02/2016 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed...
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
27/01/2016 - Events
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
Donner Summit saved for climbing in California
30/12/2015 - Climbing
Donner Summit saved for climbing in California
Rock climbing at the Black Wall and other granite crags at the world class Donner Summit in California has been secured thanks to the Access Fund, the local climbing community and other partners who have purchased the land.
Kuffner ridge, scaling Mont Blanc's beauty and history
27/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kuffner ridge, scaling Mont Blanc's beauty and history
The Kuffner Ridge (also known as the Frontier Ridge), one of the classic and most beautiful ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, described by mountain guide Thomas Scalise Meynet.
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
17/12/2015 - Climbing
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti
Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch rock climb together with Rolando Larcher and Erik Svab.
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
11/12/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
07/12/2015 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites, in memory of the late Andrea Zambaldi.
Nick Bullock and Tim Neill discover that All Roads Lead to Scotland
06/12/2015 - Alpinism
Nick Bullock and Tim Neill discover that All Roads Lead to Scotland
The video entitled All Roads Lead to Scotland, featuring British climbers Nick Bullock and Tim Neill.