795 News found

On 12 and 13 October 2011 James Pearson made the coveted second ascent of Joy Division (800m, 8b) on the Qualido, Val di Mello, Italy, one of the hardest granite multi-pitches in Europe.

British climber Jordan Buys has made the first repeat of the gritstone route Loaded E8 7a at Ilkley Quarry, while his wife Naomi Buys made the first female ascent of Snap Decision E7 6c.

On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.

Matteo Bernasconi and Davide Spini have established Cose Turche (300m 7a obligatory/8b?) up Kazilin Basi (2944m) in the Ala Daglar, Turkey.

In August 2011 German climbers Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur established Dreams of Youth (8c, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo, Madagascar.

Last summer Alessio Roverato established Momento Libero (330m, 8a max, 7a/b obligatory), up the SE Face of Sasso Rosso (Valsugana, Valbrenta, Italy).

Neil Gresham has established Hydrotherapy 8a+ at Pembroke, one of the hardest Deep Water Solo outings in Great Britain.

Aris Theodoropoulos warns climbers visiting the Greek island of Kalymnos about defective bolts placed on a series of new routes, listed in this post.

Iker and Eneko Pou have made the first free ascent of two multi-pitches on Corcovado and Sugar Loaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

In August 2011 a Swiss Bavarian expediton comprised of Caroline Morel, Andres Lietha, Michi Wyser, Tom Holzhauser, Michi Tresch and Toni Lamprecht established 10 new routes on Quvnerit Island in Greenland.

American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk have successfully climbed a direct new route via the Shark's Fin on the NW face of Meru (6310m) in India's Garhwal Himalaya.

In Twll Mawr in the Dinorwig slate quarry in Wales Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness have established The Rock Bottom Line (130m, 7b+).

On 03/09/2011 Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma made the first one-day ascent of their "Infinite Jest" (640m 8a+/8b max, 7b obl.), the new route forged by the Ragni di Lecco members up the Mahren rock face in Wenden, Switzerland.

In August 2011 a Russian expedition established No Fear (6b+, A3, 1120m) up Nameless Tower, Trango group, Karakorum

Nicolas Potard adds Le tresor de Romain, a new route combination up the Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc.

An iPhone application with videos and exercises of all the main training methods to improve power, technique and stamina, created by Alessandro Jolly Lamberti and Piero Amato.