Mt. Aksu seen from the approach.
archive Nefedov

Aksu North Face, Nefedov brothers climb Transerfing in the Pamir Alay

On 15 August 2011 Sergey and Andrey Nefedov completed the route Transerfing (1500m, 7b+), the first free climb up the North Face of Ak-Su (5217m) in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan.
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Mt. Aksu seen from the approach.
archive Nefedov

The two brothers from Saint-Petersburg, Russia ascended the circa 1500m high North Face of Aksu over 12 days via a line which connects two existing lines, the first route to the summit - Leonid Troshchinenko's 1982 line - and Aleksander Klenov's 1996 creation. The new variant has been called "Transerfing" and encounters difficulties up to 7b+, while much of the climbing is in the 6c to 7a+ region.

27-year-old Sergey stated "AKSU is the most spectacular peak in that valley. It offers beautiful crags and face-climbing, sunshine and sunrise on the big wall... That was very powerful experience for us: the next day after the summit we had to keep going down even though there were a terrible snowstorm. But without any doubt it add some pep to our adventure."

Aksu is just a day's trek from the more famous Karavshin yet despite this proximity the Aksu valley is rarely visited by foreigners. For more information, check out our article Pamir Alay, a granite paradise


Transerfing


The expedition was made possible with support from Grivel, Scarpa and Sivera.


Note:
Planetmountain
Pamir Alay, a granite paradise
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Expo Grivel
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www.scarpa.net



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