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Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    12/04/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    30/03/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
    Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    30/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Matterhorn south face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the south face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    26/03/2010 - Climbing
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    03/03/2010 - Climbing
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the south face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
    Simon Anthamatten interview
    08/02/2010 - Interviews
    Simon Anthamatten interview
    Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
    Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
    23/01/2010 - Alpinism
    Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
    On 22 January 2010, 34 year old Italian mountaineer Luca Vuerich was killed by an avalanche while climbing an icefall at Prisojinik, close to Kranjska Gora on the Italian-Slovenian border. Vuerich was rescued and transported to hospital in Udine, where he died of his injuries.
    Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
    04/12/2009 - Climbing
    Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
    Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the south face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.
    Tomaz Humar
    19/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Tomaz Humar
    The charismatic Slovenian climber who became one of the world's leading mountaineers, remembered by British journalist Ed Douglas.
    Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
    14/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
    This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the south face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
    Tomaz Humar rescue attempt in Nepal
    12/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Tomaz Humar rescue attempt in Nepal
    A rescue team belonging to the Swiss Mountain Rescue Station Air Zermatt is on its way to Nepal to try to help Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar. Humar is injured and stranded at about 6300 meters on Langtang Lirung’s north face since earlier this week and Air Zermatt is appealing...
    Nemjung South Face for Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff
    11/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Nemjung south face for Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff
    From 11 - 16 October the French mountaineers Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff established a new route on the south face of Nemjung 7140m in Nepal.
    Roby Piantoni
    16/10/2009 - Alpinism
    Roby Piantoni
    Manuel Lugli remembers Roby Piantoni, the Italian alpinist from Bergamo who lost his life yesterday on Shisha Pangma, Tibet.
    Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
    06/10/2009 - Alpinism
    Martin and Florian Riegler, Flying Penguin and the Rocky Mountains
    Interview with Martin and Florian Riegler after their climbing trips to the Bugaboos, Canada, where they carried out the first ascent of "The flying penguin" (300m, 5.12b)on the south face of Pigeon Feathers.
    Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
    14/09/2009 - Climbing
    Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada climbs for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
    In August Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria made the first ascent of "Power of Silence" 400m, 5.13a on the Middle Huey Spire in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada.

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