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Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
02/02/2010 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
The strong Italian climber Enrico Baistrocchi has managed the first repeat of the boudlery Oniyx 8c, first ascended by Markus Bock at Chironico, Switzerland. Massimo Malpezzi has the story.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
Centercourt, the new extreme testpiece first climbed by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner at the start of Janauary, has been repeated twice, by the Slovenians Aljaz Anderle and Klemen Premrl and the Austrians Rudolf Hauser and Helmut Holleis.
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).
Ice climbing in Valle di Tures
29/01/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Valle di Tures
A selection of ice climbs in Valle di Tures, South Tyrol, Italy
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first redpoint ascent.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Bendler and Maureau win Saas Fee stage of Ice Climbing World Cup 2010
26/01/2010 - Competitions
Bendler and Maureau win Saas Fee stage of Ice Climbing World Cup 2010
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup took place in Saas Fee last weekend and was won by Markus Bendler from Austria and Stéphanie Maureau from France.
Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
23/01/2010 - Alpinism
Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
On 22 January 2010, 34 year old Italian mountaineer Luca Vuerich was killed by an avalanche while climbing an icefall at Prisojinik, close to Kranjska Gora on the Italian-Slovenian border. Vuerich was rescued and transported to hospital in Udine, where he died of his injuries.
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
20/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
Samuele Scalet, good-bye to the alpinist who loved the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
19/01/2010 - Alpinism
Samuele Scalet, good-bye to the alpinist who loved the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Samuele Scalet has left us at 70 years of age. Throughout his lifetime the Italian alpinist forged unforgettable routes on the Pale di San Martino (Dolomites).
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Ice World Cup 2010, Kirov and Valle di Daone
15/01/2010 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2010, Kirov and Valle di Daone
The best ice climbers in the world will gather in Valle di Daone (Trentino) this weekend for the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2010. The athletes to beat are Angelika Rainer from Italy and Markus Bendler from Austria, winner of the first stage last weekend in Kirov,...
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
15/01/2010 - Alpinism
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
The video of American alpinist Colin Haley's 20/12/2009 solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia, via the Amy route. The film was made by Haley with a video camera mounted on his helmet.
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
Brunnital, ice climbing in Switzerland
11/01/2010 - Alpinism
Brunnital, ice climbing in Switzerland
Swiss Mountain Guide Urs Odermatt introduces the Brunnital, one of the most important ice climbing venues in Switzerland.

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