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Eiger east face poised to collapse
12/07/2006 - Environment
Eiger east face poised to collapse
Two million cubic meters of the Eiger's east face are poised to crash down into the valley hundreds of meters below due to a 300m horizontal fissure.
Sonnie Trotter frees Cobra Crack 5.14 b/c
29/06/2006 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees Cobra Crack 5.14 b/c
Canadian Sonnie Trotter has made the first ascent of what he believes to be the hardest pure crack climb in the world, Cobra Crack 5.14 b/c (8c/8c+) at the Cirque of the Uncrackables, Squamish, Canada.
Grandes Jorasses, Batoux and Daudet climb new route up East Face
04/04/2006 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Batoux and Daudet climb new route up east face
From 14 - 23 March Philippe Batoux and Lionel Daudet made the first ascent of “Little Big Men” (A3, 6a, M5), on the wild and grandiose east face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc.
Prezelj's Patagonian ascents with Koch and Potter
17/03/2006 - Alpinism
Prezelj's Patagonian ascents with Koch and Potter
Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj has returned from a five week trip to Patagonia where, dodging typical unstable weather, he made two fast ascents together with the Americans Stephen Koch and Dean Potter, one on Cerro Torre and one on Torre Standhardt.
Belgians repeat Riders on the Storm, Patagonia
17/02/2006 - Alpinism
Belgians repeat Riders on the Storm, Patagonia
A strong young Belgian team comprised of Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Seán Villanueva, Mike Lecomte and Philippe Ceulemans has made a rare repeat of Riders on the Storm, situated in the Torres del Paine and undoubtedly one of the crown jewels in Patagonia's repertoire of classic climbs.
Ueli Steck - Khumbu Express - Piolet d'Or 2005
10/02/2006 - Interviews
Ueli Steck - Khumbu Express - Piolet d'Or 2005
Interview with Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck, nominated for Piolet d'or 2005 for his solo ascents of Cholatse (6440m), Tawoche (6505m) and Ama Dablam (up to 5900m).
Salvaterra, Cerro Torre and Maestri
24/11/2005 - Alpinism
Salvaterra, Cerro Torre and Maestri
Ermanno Salvaterra's intervention after his latest ascent on Cerro Torre with Rolando Garibotti and Alessandro Beltrami.
Alexander Huber frees Voie Petit on Grand Capucin
05/08/2005 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Voie Petit on Grand Capucin
On the 17th of July Alexander Huber from Germany successfully made the first free ascent of 'Voie Petit' on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, grading the 300m line F8b.
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
04/08/2005 - Climbing
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.)...
Ueli Steck - absolute void
01/06/2005 - Interviews
Ueli Steck - absolute void
Ueli Steck and his solo ascents of Cholatse and Tawoche in the Himalaya, in the words of Christine Kopp .
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
28/02/2005 - Events
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
The prestigious Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagne Magazine was won by the Russian team for its ascent of Jannu. Steve House won the spectators award for his solitary ascent of K7.
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
10/02/2005 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2004, the six candidates
The jury, headed by Krzysztof Wielicki, and the six candidates for the Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagnes Magazine
Piolet d'Or 2004 nominees
24/12/2004 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2004 nominees
The six Piolet d'Or 2004 nominees for the most important alpine achievements of the year
Cerro Torre East Face new route!
16/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre east face new route!
On 13/11/2004 at 21.00 Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti reached the top of Cerro Torre via a new direct route up the east face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia.
On-sights and redpoints
25/10/2004 - Climbing
On-sights and redpoints
A brief resumè of hard ascents by Markus Bendler, Steve McClure, Gérôme Pouvreau, Martina Cufar, Tomàs Mrazek, Patxi Usobiaga, Ueli Steck and Ines Papert.
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
15/06/2004 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
On 7 February 2004 the Italians Elio Orlandi and Luca Fava, and the Argentine Horacio Codò reached the summit of Chalten - Fitz Roy (Patagonia) via the new "Linea di Eleganza" , graded ED+ 6c/A3 90°/M7,