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Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
06/12/2016 - Interviews
Silvio Reffo shoots up Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco in Sardinia
Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and freed the pitches on his second attempt.
Jozef Kristoffy climbs Corona at Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch in Slovakia's Tatras
05/12/2016 - Alpinism
Jozef Kristoffy climbs Corona at Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch in Slovakia's Tatras
At the start of September 2016 Slovakian climber Jozef Kristoffy made the first free ascent of Corona 11- on Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch rock climb in the High Tatras.
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
03/12/2016 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
Over a 6-day period in October 2016 23-year-old Belgian Sebastien Berthe, climbing together with Simon Castagne, made the second free ascent of Free Heart Route (5.13b V10) on El Capitan.
Mirror Wall, Leo Houlding and Co climbing in Greenland
26/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mirror Wall, Leo Houlding and Co climbing in Greenland
The film documenting the expedition led by Leo Houlding and the ensuing first ascent of Reflections, (E6 6b, A3+, 1250m) up the North West face of Mirror Wall in Greenland.
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23/11/2016 - Interviews
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
23/11/2016 - Climbing
Magnificat, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo in Tuscany
A new multi-pitch rock climb at Capo d’Uomo, Argentario, Italy: Magnificat (6b+, 80m), first ascended by the Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi and dedicated to Roberto Iannilli.
Mission accomplished: Adam Ondra completes second free ascent of Dawn Wall
22/11/2016 - Climbing
Mission accomplished: Adam Ondra completes second free ascent of Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic, climbing together with Pavel Blažek, has completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and 2015.
Jorg Verhoeven claims first repeat of Dihedral Wall in Yosemite
14/11/2016 - Climbing
Jorg Verhoeven claims first repeat of Dihedral Wall in Yosemite
After 5 days of climbing Jorg Verhoeven has now carried out the first repeat of 'Dihedral Wall' on El Capitan in Yosemite. Until this repeat, carried out together with his wife Katharina Saurwein, the route had only been free climbed once before, namely by Tommy Caldwell who in 2004 established...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2
29/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2
Update about Adam Ondra and developments from the 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while...
Silvio Reffo claims first free ascent of Horror Vacui on Monte Cimo
17/10/2016 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo claims first free ascent of Horror Vacui on Monte Cimo
Italian climber Silvio Reffo reports about the first one day free ascent, carried out on 16/10/2016, of Horror Vacui (8b+, 180m), the multi-pitch sports climb established by Rolando Larcher in spring 2015 at the Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Monte Cimo (Val d’Adige).