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Schirata, new route on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites by Stuflesser and Riegler
20/04/2012 - Climbing
Schirata, new route on Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites by Stuflesser and Riegler
In winter 2011-12 Manuel Stuflesser and Martin Riegler established Schirata (XI-, 235m), a new route up Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites). The report by Stuflesser.
Adamello: new route Cuore di Zucca and first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile by Guerzoni and Sandrini
18/04/2012 - Alpinism
Adamello: new route Cuore di Zucca and first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile by Guerzoni and Sandrini
In the Adamello mountain range in Italy, Andrea Andrea Guerzoni and Dario Sandrini have established Cuore di Zucca (5+, 700m) on Corno Zuccone. Furthermore, on 16 March the two made the first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile up Cornetto di Salarno.
Gran Sasso, Di Donato and Lemaire and the winter ascent of Il nagual e la farfalla
03/04/2012 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso, Di Donato and Lemaire and the winter ascent of Il nagual e la farfalla
From 14 to 16 March 2012 the Italian climbers Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire made the second winter ascent of the route Il nagual e la farfalla up Gran Sasso, Central Italy. The report about this outstanding ascent by Roberto Iannilli.
Piolets d'Or 2012, the videos of the ascents
29/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012, the videos of the ascents
The videos of the six ascents nominated for the Piolet d'Or 2012, awarded to the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar for their ascent of K7 West (Pakistan) and the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson for their ascent of Torre Egger (Patagonia) by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole...
Piolets d'Or 2012: K7 West and Saser Kangri II
25/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012: K7 West and Saser Kangri II
The Piolet d'Or 2012 was awarded to two ascents, K7 West in Pakistan climbed by the Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, and Saser Kangri II in India climbed by the Americans Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson. The ascent of Torre Egger in Argentina by Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and...
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
From 15 - 16 March 2012 Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli carried out the first winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The report by Simon Gietl.
Piolets d'Or 2012, the international alpinism festival starts today
21/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012, the international alpinism festival starts today
The Piolet d'Or gets underway in Courmayeur and Chamonix today and 2012 celebrates the 20th anniversary of the world's most famous alpinism award. Four days of international alpinism at the foot of Mont Blanc to discuss, watch and celebrate alpinism in all its forms, to pay homage to Walter Bonatti...
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
30/12/2011 - Interviews
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Dinosaur track discovered on Mount Pelmo, Dolomites
29/12/2011 - Environment
Dinosaur track discovered on Mount Pelmo, Dolomites
In September 2011 a group of five speleologists and mountaineers of La Venta Association spotted a possible track of dinosaur footprints at 3025 meters on the North-east ridge of Mount Pelmo in the Dolomites.
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
15/12/2011 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia
The North Ridge of Aguja Guillaumet (2579m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia was first climbed in 1981 by the Argentines Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni. Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo and Marcello Sanguineti repeated the route on 8 December 2011 and finished up the Amy route.
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
09/12/2011 - Alpinism
Supercanaleta Fitz Roy, Patagonia
Some climbs seem timeless due to their importance in the history of alpinism. One of these is certainly Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. The story by Damiano Barabino, Sergio De Leo, Marcello Sanguineti.
San Vito Lo Capo, an introduction to rock climbing in Sicily
02/12/2011 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo, an introduction to rock climbing in Sicily
Climbing and travel journal 2. San Vito Lo Capo: its climbing, Sicily, the history and sea as seen through the eyes of Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
Nicolò Ceria frees Happy Birthday Totò at Chironico
17/11/2011 - Climbing
Nicolò Ceria frees Happy Birthday Totò at Chironico
At Chironico in Switzerland Nicolò Ceria has freed Happy Birthday Totò 7C+.

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