975 News found
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
26/11/2016 - Competitions
Kranj Lead World Cup 2016 Live On 26 and 27 November 2016 Kranj in Slovenia will host the final stage of the Climbing Lead World Cup 2016. While Janja Garnbret has already won the women's World Cup, Domen Skofic, Romain Desgranges, Jakob Schubert, Stefano Ghisolfi and Gautier Supper are all in with a chance of standing...
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
24/10/2016 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.
20/10/2016 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes / Picu Urriellu (2518m) in Spain.
18/10/2016 - Climbing
Tavolara, climbing on the Sardinian island shrouded in myth Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.
17/10/2016 - Climbing
The Millennium Arch climbed in Canyonlands by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have made the first ascent of The Millennium Arch, a circa 100m roof crack at Canyonlands, USA they have now graded 5.14.
13/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 05/10/2016 at Alternativna stena in Slovakia made the first ascent of 'Robin Úd', a 9b sports climb, before on sighting the 8c+ 'C'est la vie'.
12/10/2016 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Video: Matheo Jacquemoud, the comeback of a ski mountaineering champion Jacquemoud, Fall and Rise: the story of the young ski mountaineering champion and French mountain guide Matheo Jacquemoud, told in this video by Kilian Jornet Burgada.
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.
08/10/2016 - Alpinism
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and demanding Deffeyes - Carrel route. Their deaths are an immense...
16/09/2016 - Climbing
Roger Schaeli repeats Eiger North Face La vida es silbar Climbing together with Mayan Smith-Gobat, Robert Schaeli has carried out what is believed to be only the second free ascent of the 'La vida es silbar' up the legendary north face of the Eiger, Switzerland. Established in 1998-99 by Daniel Anker and Stephan Siegrist, the 900m line was freed in...
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous...
12/09/2016 - Competitions
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race On Sunday 11 September 770 runners set off from Courmayeur for the 7th Tor des Geants, considered the most difficult mountain race in the world. This extraordinary challenge in the heart of the four giants of the Alps: 330km long and 24.000 meter elevation gain across Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
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