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The Mystery of Phandambiri established by Italian expedition in Mozambique
21/08/2025 - Climbing
The Mystery of Phandambiri established by Italian expedition in Mozambique
On Saturday 9 August the Italians Manrico Dell'Agnola, Antonella Giacomini, Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto completed 'Il mistero del Phandambiri' (The Mystery of Phandambiri) on the SE Pillar of Phandambiri, also referred to as Mount Panda. The climb reaches the mountain's main summit and comes in the wake of...
First ascents of Kaikiawila, Ngoku and other new climbs in Angola
14/08/2025 - Climbing
First ascents of Kaikiawila, Ngoku and other new climbs in Angola
A team of seven Spanish comprising Miguel A. Díaz, Álvaro García, Indi Gutierrez, David Matos, Juanjo Medina, Manu Ponce and Gonzalo Torre has completed several first ascents on the imposing granite mountains of southern Cumbira II in Angola's Cuanza Sur province. Highlights include the first ascents of Mt. Kaikiawila and...
New climb on Nevado Cashan in Peru dedicated to Carlos Suárez
10/08/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Nevado Cashan in Peru dedicated to Carlos Suárez
On 26 and 27 July 2025 Manuel López and Alex Úbeda established a new mixed climb on the northwest face of Nevado Cashan (5686m) in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes. The route is dedicated to the famous Spanish mountaineer Carlos Suarez, who perished in a base jumping...
Jonas Schild repeats Joy Division on Monte Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy
09/08/2025 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Joy Division on Monte Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy
Swiss climber Jonas Schild, climbing with Thomas Schmid, has made a rare free ascent of 'Joy Division', the 800m 8b on Monte Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy. Established in 2004 by Simone Pedeferri, even today it is considered one of the hardest granite multi-pitches in Europe. Schild provides the...
'Grande U' skyline enchainment in Val Bondasca completed by Benjamin Bosshard & Filippo Sala
06/08/2025 - Alpinism
'Grande U' skyline enchainment in Val Bondasca completed by Benjamin Bosshard & Filippo Sala
From 30 - 31 July Swiss alpinists Benjamin Bosshard and Filippo Sala completed what is known as the Grande U of Bondasca, ie the enchainment of all the main summits above Valle Bondasca. The huge skyline between Passo della Turbinasca and Passo Cacciabella includes 17 summits, 29km and 4900 elevation...
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
05/08/2025 - Interviews
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
An strong Italian expedition comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Tommaso Lamantia and Marco Majori is currently on its way to Patagonia where it aims to make the first winter ascent of the Casarotto route on the Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy.
 'Histoire Sans Fin' repeated on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Camilla Moroni, Pietro Vidi
16/07/2025 - Alpinism
'Histoire Sans Fin' repeated on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Camilla Moroni, Pietro Vidi
Camilla Moroni and Pietro Vidi have repeated 'Histoire sans Fin' (8b+/5.14a 200m) on Petit Clocher du Portalet in Switzerland. Moroni's repeat is the first female ascent of this 200m 8b+.
'Le château dans le ciel' added to Petit Dru by Yanis Cherqaoui, Baptiste Obino, Hugo Peruzzo
26/06/2025 - Alpinism
'Le château dans le ciel' added to Petit Dru by Yanis Cherqaoui, Baptiste Obino, Hugo Peruzzo
From 18 - 21 June 2025 French alpinists Yanis Cherqaoui, Baptiste Obino and Hugo Peruzzo made the first ascent of 'Le château dans le ciel' (ED, 7b+, 1000m) on Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif.
'Shooting the Moon' climbed on Ultar Sar (Pakistan) by Ethan Berman, Maarten van Haeren, Sebastian Pelletti
19/06/2025 - Alpinism
'Shooting the Moon' climbed on Ultar Sar (Pakistan) by Ethan Berman, Maarten van Haeren, Sebastian Pelletti
From 6 - 13 June 2025 alpinists Ethan Berman, Maarten van Haeren and Sebastian Pelletti made the first ascent of ‘Shooting the Moon’ (WI4 M5, 3100m), a magnificent new mixed route climbed alpine style on Ultar Sar, Pakistan.
New climb on Pirita Central in Turbio Valley (Patagonia) by Flavie Cardinal, Jasper Pankratz
16/06/2025 - Climbing
New climb on Pirita Central in Turbio Valley (Patagonia) by Flavie Cardinal, Jasper Pankratz
In January 2025 Canadian alpinists Flavie Cardinal and Jasper Pankratz made the first ascent of 'Todo lo que se Comparte' on Pirita Central in the remote Piritas valley, a side valley of the Turbio Valley in Northern Patagonia. Cardinal reports.
'Le Poussin' multipitch aid climb added to Verdon Gorge, France
10/06/2025 - Climbing
'Le Poussin' multipitch aid climb added to Verdon Gorge, France
French climbers Léo Billon, Esteban Daligault and Kilian Moni have made the first ascent of 'Le Poussin', a new multipitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France. The 250m line is graded A3+ and shares some sections of 'Guy Heran'.
'Sous l'œil d'Adèle' mixed climb added to Pointe Louise in France's Écrins
27/05/2025 - Alpinism
'Sous l'œil d'Adèle' mixed climb added to Pointe Louise in France's Écrins
Kilian Moni reports about the first ascent of 'Sous l'œil d'Adèle' established on 18/05/2025 with Laetitia Chomette and Pierre Girot on the north face of Pointe Louise, Écrins massif, France. The 600m mixed climb above the Plate des Agneaux valley is graded 600m ED- 5/M5+.
The great beauty of Melloblocco
11/05/2025 - Events
The great beauty of Melloblocco
The 18th edition of Melloblocco — the world’s largest bouldering — came to a close yesterday in Val Masino – Val di Mello, Italy. Four days of climbing and festivities in the valley drew over 2,300 registered participants and 8,000 attendees.
Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau North Face Trilogy speed record by Philipp Brugger & Nicolas Hojac
21/04/2025 - Alpinism
Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau North Face Trilogy speed record by Philipp Brugger & Nicolas Hojac
On 05/04/2025 Philipp Brugger from Austria and Nicolas Hojac from Switzerland climbed the north faces of Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau in 15 hours 30 minutes. The previous record along the same three climbs was set by Ueli Steck and Stephan Siegrist in 2004 in 25 hours.
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
01/04/2025 - Alpinism
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
The report by Silvan Schüpbach about the first ascent of 'Luce e Tenebre' on the north face of Punta Pioda, also known as Pioda di Sciora in Switzerland, established from 6 - 9 March 2025 together with fellow Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala and Roger Schäli.
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/03/2025 - Alpinism
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 7 March 2025, Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made what is likely to be the first winter ascent of 'Via Dell’Eva-Taddei' on the north face of Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy). The summer climb, first ascended in 1969 and originally graded V+, was reinterpreted by Andreozzi and Falezza in a...

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