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Watch Matteo Della Bordella & Leo Gheza climb Patagonia's Care Bear Traverse
30/11/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Matteo Della Bordella & Leo Gheza climb Patagonia's Care Bear traverse
The video of Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Leo Gheza climbing the Care Bear traverse in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia, i.e. enchaining Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Pilastro Goretta and Fitz Roy.
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
21/11/2023 - Alpinism
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
Swiss alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli have climbed the Salbitschijen west, south and east ridge in an unprecedented record time of 5 hours and 53 minutes. The previous best known time was set in July 2023 in Dani Arnold who climbed the three ridges solo in 9 hours and...
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
20/11/2023 - Climbing
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
Supported by climbing partner Karel Nováček, Michaela Izakovičová from Slovakia has made a free ascent of 'Golden Gate' on El Capitan in Yosemite. The 34-year-old from Bratislava provides the details of this classic big wall, established in September 2000 by German brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Laura Rogora makes first female ascent of Lapsus (9a+) at Andonno
09/11/2023 - Climbing
Laura Rogora makes first female ascent of Lapsus (9a+) at Andonno
At Andonno in Italy 22-year-old Laura Rogora has repeated Lapsus (9a+), Cobra Reale (8c+/9a), Noia (8c+) and Noi (8b+).
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
23/10/2023 - Alpinism
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
On 12/10/2023 Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel and Rolf Zurbrügg made the first ascent of the west face of Rottalhorn (3971m) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps via their 'Herbstwanderung'.
Simon Gietl's Dolomites Winter Solos
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl's Dolomites Winter Solos
The video of Simon Gietl and his winter solo climbs in the Dolomites: Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Sass dla Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel, Rosengarten, Geislerspitzen.
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed and while all pitches were freed individually,...
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
27/09/2023 - Interviews
Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger
Interview with Jakob Schubert after the first ascent of Project Big at Flatanger in Norway last week. The 32-year-old Austrian has now called the climb B.I.G. and suggested the grade 9c. This is currently the third route in the world with this grade, after Silence at Flatanger and DNA in...
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
07/09/2023 - Alpinism
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
The report by Daniele Bolognani who with Davide Dallago made the first ascent of via Bolago (VII, 200m) on the east face of Quarto Campanile degli Armi in the Brenta Dolomites
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in the middle of the face.
Paul Bonhomme starts Via Alpina 'Zero to Zero' run across the Alps in 28 days
08/07/2023 - Trail running
Paul Bonhomme starts Via Alpina 'Zero to Zero' run across the Alps in 28 days
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme set off in the early hours of this morning from Muggia in Italy on his ambitious 'Zero to Zero' project to run across the Alps all the way to the Principality of Monaco following the Via Alpina trail in 28 days.
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
22/06/2023 - Alpinism
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
On 17/06/2023 the young French mountaineers Mathis Garayt (19), Arthur Poindefert (19), Kilian Moni (20) made the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on the NW Face of Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif. The 580m mixed climb is graded 580m, ED, M6+/7, WI 4+, 5c (5.10a) and...
New multipitch on Punta Argennas in Sardinia by Mathias Mandi, Klaas Willems
02/06/2023 - Climbing
New multipitch on Punta Argennas in Sardinia by Mathias Mandi, Klaas Willems
On Punta Argennas in Sardinia Mathias Mandi and Klaas Willems have made the first ascent of I Ribelli Della Montagna 7c (7a+ obligatory).