New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia

South Tyrolean mountain guide Josef Hilpold has established a new multipitch on the famous Pedra Longa sea stack at Baunei in Sardinia. Called Giai amus a obiare, the 155-meter climb is split into 6 pitches and breaches difficulties up to 6b. It tackles a line through the band of yellow wall rock to the left of the excellent Cromosomi Corsari, with which it shares the first two bolts before continuing directly upwards.

Hilpold established the first 4 pitches on his own on 6 and 7 November 2023 and escaped leftwards with a 4c traverse that leads to the abseil descent of the normal route. This year he returned and added a further two pitches that lead directly to the summit.

Given the difficulties, the new route promises to be an interesting alternative to the extremely popular Marinaio di foresta and Signorina Fantasia, located on the other side of the limestone tower.

Hilpold's new route will be included in the new guidebook Baunei Sport Climbing (2024) by Maurizio Oviglia, due out in about a month.