Michael Piccolruaz sends Es Pontas: 'A dream come true!'

Throughout my career I've climbed many all-time climbs and I have often asked myself if it can get any better. So far I have always found a better climb, or at least one leveling the previous ones. Now though I don’t think I will ever find a better line again. Es Pontas is simply entirely in its own league. I honestly believe that this is THE best line we have in climbing. THE KING LINE!

Getting on top of this insane piece of rock has been a lifelong dream of mine and my story with the climb goes back a long way. From getting inspired by Chris Sharma doing the FA in the King Lines movie, to putting my hands on it for the first time in 2021, then sieging the crazy jump with Jakob Schubert, and finally sticking it, only to not be able to repeat it again from the original start! I then put Es Pontas aside for some years to focus on becoming better at this game of Deep Water Soloing. I sent Alasha, got the confidence that I can climb hard high above the water, explored the untouched potential of the limestone cliffs on Mallorca and added some first ascents. And then I finally came back this year with one sole focus, one single purpose: close the cycle and climb Es Pontas.

Intimidated by the jump, my strategy was to work the upper crux boulder a lot on the rope, make sure I'd be solid on it, then move on to try Around the arch. This involves down-climbing from the left to the top holds of the dyno, and from there continue and do the traverese and end of Es Pontas. I knew that doing this link would give me the confidence that I can do the whole thing once I stick the jump, as the pump level would be similar to coming from the bottom.

Eventually I had to start trying the jump again. This one move that had caused me so much headache back in 2021 and, as it would turn out, would cause me difficulties again this year. Surprisingly I did it once during my 3rd session back on the route, and as I felt solid on it, I was confident that I'd do it again every session from then on. But it turned out that this was an illusion. The next session I was back to square one, I wasn't close at all, and frustration started to build.

After each fall into the water, I tried to tell myself that I'd only need that one lucky punch to stick it again, and then I wouldn't fall after that! Turns out, that was an illusion, too! In fact, when I finally stuck the jump again, I found myself on the boulder problem high on the arete, way too pumped to have a chance of sending.

This time though I had unlocked the jump for real, and I started doing it more and more consistently. This gave me a lot of confidence, and I knew that I just had to climb better through all the other sections, in order to save as much energy as possible, and that the upper crux would go.

And then that one special try came. I had just fallen on the jump again after doing it 3 times in a row, the try before I even fumbled on the traverse. If I was nervous at the beginning of the session, prior to this try I wasn't anymore really, as my focus had switched from 'OK I have to send now' to 'OK I need to to the jump again first'.

So I was climbing more relaxed again, got to the jump, stuck it, was happy that I did it again but then locked in and focused on climbing perfectly, on through the next part. I flowed more than on previous tries, breathed better, and already when I entered the crux moves I knew that it was game on. I just had to keep the composure. And then there I was, dangling off the saving jug, instantly venting out my relief and happiness.

The last 7-8 easy meters up to the top of the arch were pure enjoyment. I wasn't even trying to hold back any emotions, and when I mantled up into the sunlight, I couldn't really believe that I had just completed this lifelong dream of mine. I'd just done Es Pontas! The best line in the world! Insane!

- Michael Piccolruaz, Val Gardena