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Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.
Vivian Bruchez skis Punta Baretti in Mont Blanc massif
Vivian Bruchez skis Punta Baretti in Mont Blanc massif
On 20 April 2022 French alpinist Vivian Bruchez skied a probable new line up from Punta Baretti (4013m) on the Brouillard ridge in the Mont Blanc massif.
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
Entropi on Mt. Blokktind in Norway climbed by Juho Knuuttila, Eivind Jacobsen
14/03/2022 - Alpinism
Entropi on Mt. Blokktind in Norway climbed by Juho Knuuttila, Eivind Jacobsen
Juho Knuuttila reports about the first ascent of Entropi on the NW Face of Mt. Blokktind, carried out with Eivind Jacobsen on 04/03/2022. The stunning 1000m mixed climb has been described by the Finnish alpinist as 'one of the most beautiful winter lines I have seen in northern Norway.'
A Brief Climbing History to Mont Vert de Greuvetta, Mont Blanc massif
17/11/2021 - Alpinism
A Brief Climbing History to Mont Vert de Greuvetta, Mont Blanc massif
The brief climbing history to Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif, summarised by Simon Richardson who, this autumn with Michael Rinn, climbed a series of new routes in the range.
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
13/10/2021 - Alpinism
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
This summer James Price made a first ascent of Passu Sar North (6884m) and opened new routes on Passu Diar (7295m) and Maidon Sar (6090m), also referred to as Darmyani Peak, by climbing the mountain's south ridge.
Filip Babicz climbs Pizzo Badile North Ridge in 43 minutes
14/09/2021 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz climbs Pizzo Badile North Ridge in 43 minutes
On Friday 10 September 2021 Filip Babicz climbed the North Ridge of Pizzo Badile in 42 minutes and 52 seconds.
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
24/08/2021 - Alpinism
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
Mountaineers Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo have established a series of new routes in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. Highlights included ascents of Pik Alpinist (5482m) and Pik Korolyova (5816m).
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
23/09/2020 - Alpinism
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
31/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
On 27/08/2020 Filip Babicz soloed the south ridge of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in a blazing time of 1:30:14.
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.