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Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
15/04/2021 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
On Wednesday 3 March 2021 Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse soloed Via De Amicis on the Matterhorn. With this ascent the 43-year-old mountaineer from Valle d'Aosta closed the circle, becoming the first to solo all six ridges of the Matterhorn.
Farewell to Luca Pandolfi
Farewell to Luca Pandolfi
On 17 March 2021 Luca Pandolfi perished in an avalanche above Flassin at Saint-Oyen in the Aosta Valley. Known by everyone, the Italian was a highly regarded snowboarder.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
04/12/2019 - Interviews
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
Interview with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after their free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
05/04/2019 - Climbing
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
French sports climber Lucien Martinez has made the third ascent of Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse, after Chris Sharma in 2007 and Adam Ondra in 2015.
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
08/08/2018 - Interviews
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
Interview with Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer after his July 2018 solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West, a 7181 meter peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
31/07/2018 - Alpinism
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped for over 6 days on Latok I, has been rescued by the Pakistani military helicopters.
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
29/07/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission
Updates from Pakistan concerning the attempt to rescue Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped at 6200m altitude on Latok I (7145 m) in Karakorum.
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
19/06/2018 - Interviews
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
Interview with Anne Gilbert Chase after the ninth ascent and first female ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali, climbed from 2 - 5 June 2018 with Chantel Astorga.

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