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Punta Pilocca... multi-pitches! Sardinia's historic climbing revamped
02/03/2016 - Climbing
Punta Pilocca... multi-pitches! Sardinia's historic climbing revamped
Over the past two months Corrado Pibiri and climbing partners have revamped some historical multi-pitch rock climbs at Punta Pilocca, one of Sardinia’s most beautiful crags. As always, some new routes were created by Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis, Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia, who now provides the most recent updates.
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
Stefano Ghisolfi frees Dingo at Finale, Italy
15/02/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi frees Dingo at Finale, Italy
At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Dingo. The Turin-based climber suggests 8c+ for this project bolted by Andrea Gallo in 1992.
Video: Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior climbing in Oman
11/02/2016 - Climbing
Video: Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior climbing in Oman
The second video of Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior in Oman, where they climbed at Hadash and the mountain Jebel Misht.
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
05/02/2016 - Climbing
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
The climbing report by French climber Arnaud Petit who in January 2016, together with Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior, established a host of new sport climbs in the Valley of Giants and Wadi Bani Khalid in Oman, before repeating routes at Hadash and on Jebel Misht.
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
15/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.
Roland Hemetzberger frees Stefan Fürst desperate at Achleiten
26/12/2015 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees Stefan Fürst desperate at Achleiten
On Friday 25 December 2015 Roland Hemetzberger freed an old project of Stefan Fürst at Achleiten in Austria, for which he suggests the grade 9a+.
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
15/12/2015 - Interviews
Annalisa De Marco and the disarming lightness of bouldering
Interview with talented Italian climber Annalisa De Marco who, on only her third attempt, sent Disney Production, an 8A+ boulder problem at Brione, Canton Ticino, Switzerland.
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
06/11/2015 - Climbing
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
The series 'Crags for each season' published together with Vertical-Life.info continues. The seventh crag is the new sport climbing and bouldering area Spiluck - Spelonca close to Vahrn / Brixen in Italy's South Tyrol.
From Noia to Lapsus at Andonno in Italy. By Severino Scassa
04/11/2015 - Climbing
From Noia to Lapsus at Andonno in Italy. By Severino Scassa
Severino Seve Scassa, who climbed Italy’s first 8c+ in 1993 with Noia at Andonno, shares his views about Lapsus, the new route freed at the same crag by Stefano Ghisolfi graded 9b.
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
27/10/2015 - Climbing
sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
Some quick thoughts and an "outburst" by Nicola Tondini - Italian mountain guide and director of the King Rock climbing wall in Verona - about sport climbing safety. Safe climbing must begin with big little steps (such as the correct use of belay devices) and requires help and awareness from...
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
Kyparissi, a new sports climbing paradise in Greece
28/09/2015 - Climbing
Kyparissi, a new sports climbing paradise in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Kyparissi, a mere 5 hours from Athens and a secluded paradise for sport climbing. Although currently there are just over 100 sport climbs, the potential is enormous and the Kyparissi Climbing Festival has been organised from 2 - 4 October 2015 to celebrate the recent development in...
Sport climbing and the Olympics, the dream is becoming a reality
28/09/2015 - Competitions
sport climbing and the Olympics, the dream is becoming a reality
The Tokyo 2020 Organising Committee announced today that it has proposed 5 sports to the International Olympic Committee (IOC), including sports climbing. The other sports are: baseball/softball, karate, skateboard and surfing. All that is missing now is final ratification by the IOC when in meets in Rio de Janeiro in...

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