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Chris Sharma back to the future on Magie blanche at Mouriès
12/12/2015 - Climbing
Chris Sharma back to the future on Magie blanche at Mouriès
American rock climber Chris Sharma tests his skills on Magie blanche, a sport climb at Mouriès in France bolted by Marc Le Ménestrel and freed by Didier Raboutou back in 1989. At the time, this slab was hailed as one of the hardest climbs in the world...
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
09/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher climbs Lapoterapia trad at Osso in Italy
Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c at Osso (Piemonte, Italy) freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012, this time greenpoint ie skipping the bolts and using trad gear to protect the climb. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
07/12/2015 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Val d'Ambiez: new climb in memory of Andrea Zambaldi
The short film entitled Zamba by Pietro Bagnara / OpenCircle documenting the first ascent of Simonini - Bellamoli (370m, 7a max, 6b/c oblig), the new rock climb put up by Gianluca Beliamoli and Andrea Simonini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites, in memory of the late Andrea Zambaldi.
Yosemite valley and climbing in Never Never Land. By Jacopo Larcher
25/11/2015 - Climbing
Yosemite valley and climbing in Never Never Land. By Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo Larcher talks about his first climbing trip to Yosemite Valley, USA with Barbara Zangerl, during which they repeated El Nino (5.13c, 800m) on El Capitan and other granite big wall climbs.
Tangra Tower Cory Hall Memorial expedition in Pakistan's Khane Valley
13/11/2015 - Alpinism
Tangra Tower Cory Hall Memorial expedition in Pakistan's Khane Valley
James Monypenny reports about the attempt, carried out together with Max Fisher to climb Tangra Tower (5,620m) situated in Khane Valley in Pakistan's Karakoram in memory of Cory Hall.
Monte Cimo: Nicola Tondini climbs three new 8a multi-pitches
10/11/2015 - Climbing
Monte Cimo: Nicola Tondini climbs three new 8a multi-pitches
Nicola Tondini introduces three multi-pitch rock climbs located on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy) they are united, apart from their difficulty, by their extraordinary beauty: Tra Nuvole e Sogni and The Edge on Sass Mesdì, and Destini Incrociati on Castel Presina.
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
07/11/2015 - Alpinism
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
The report by Walter Polidori, leader of the Italian 1 to 1 Challenge, the climbing expedition to Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Südwind, new Wilder Kaiser climb by Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher
27/10/2015 - Climbing
Südwind, new Wilder Kaiser climb by Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher
On 30 September 2015 Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Südwind (X, 250m) a new multi-pitch rock climb up Maukspitze in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria.
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was completed in 2015 after three days of effort that included...
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
20/10/2015 - Climbing
Family San Martino, the new crag at Arco for families
The new crag Family San Martino has been inaugurated at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Located close to the historic climbing area Massone, this small sheet of rock has been bolted specifically for families and young children and offers 17 routes from 3a to 6b.
Heroes on Pizzo Campana, new rock climb in Sicily
19/10/2015 - Climbing
Heroes on Pizzo Campana, new rock climb in Sicily
Italian climber Massimo Flaccavento reports about the first ascent, carried out together with Giuseppe Barbagallo and Giorgio Iurato, of Heroes (6b+, 186m), a new climb up the north face of Pizzo Campana (Rocca Busambra) close to Palermo, Sicily.
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
08/10/2015 - Climbing
Big new rock climb on Monte Fibbion in the Brenta Dolomites
Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascent of 50 anni son volati, 25 regalati! (215m, 8a+ max, 7b obl.), a new rock climb established to celebrate his first 50 years together with Herman Zanetti, Luca Giupponi and Alessandro Larcher up the East Face Monte Fibbion (Campa Group, Brenta Dolomites).
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
05/10/2015 - Alpinism
Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has carried out a fast solo ascent of the routes Tomahawk and Excocet on Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia.
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
02/10/2015 - Climbing
King of the Bongo on Qualido in Val di Mello climbed by Marazzi, de Zaiacomo and Schiera
In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
21/09/2015 - Climbing
Maleficent, new route up Cimone della Bagozza in Italy's Orobic Alps
Fulvio Zanetti talks about the first ascent of Maleficent (320mt 7c+, 7a+ oblig), established together with Francesco Beni up the NW Face of Cimon della Bagozza, Orobic Alps. The new multi-pitch rock climb up the symbol of Val di Scalve crosses Spigolo Cassin (Riccardo Cassin, Aldo Frattini and Rodolfo Varallo,...
Johnny Dawes no handed climbing II
18/09/2015 - Climbing
Johnny Dawes no handed climbing II
The video of British rock climber Johnny Dawes attempting Permutation Rib E1 5c at Caley, England, without hands.