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Città di Uruk in Val Sapin, climbing at the historic crag above Courmayeur in Italy
13/09/2021 - Climbing
Città di Uruk in Val Sapin, climbing at the historic crag above Courmayeur in Italy
Città di Uruk is a historic crag located in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy. With over 30 climbs of all grades, this is reputed to be the best cliff in the entire Aosta Valley. This year the crag hosts the Tiro Lead competition, with € 1,000 prize money for...
Paige Claassen seizes Dreamcatcher 9a in Squamish
06/09/2021 - Climbing
Paige Claassen seizes Dreamcatcher 9a in Squamish
American rock climber Paige Claassen has made the first female ascent of Dreamcatcher, the iconic 9a at Squamish in Canada first ascended by Chris Sharma in 2005.
Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
06/09/2021 - Alpinism
Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about his 4 August first ascent with his daughter Anna Coubalová of Papilio (VII+, 235m) up the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites.
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
25/08/2021 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
German alpinists Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have managed to establish a new line on Pic de Bure in the Dauphiné Prealps in France. The route is a variation to the classic Pilier Est established in 1961 by André Bertrand, René Desmaison and Yves Pollet-Villard.
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Bibliographie, Alexander Megos' masterpiece at Céüse
24/08/2021 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Bibliographie, Alexander Megos' masterpiece at Céüse
28-year-old Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first repeat of Bibliographie, the Alexander Megos masterpiece at Céüse in France graded 9c.
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have climbed Colonne d’Ercole (1200m, IX) on Mount Civetta in the Dolomites onsight and in a single day. A few days earlier the French mountaineers had teamed up with Silvia Loreggian, climbing Specchio di Sara with the starting variant Coitus Interruptus and the Larcher-Vigiani (8a...
Pezonda, yet another new crag on Kalymnos in Greece
18/08/2021 - Climbing
Pezonda, yet another new crag on Kalymnos in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Pezond, an interesting new crag on the northeast coast of Kalymnos in Greece.
Tiro Leader in Val Sapin above Courmayeur, Italy / Alberto Gnerro & Federica Mingolla interview
18/08/2021 - Interviews
Tiro Leader in Val Sapin above Courmayeur, Italy / Alberto Gnerro & Federica Mingolla interview
Interview with Alberto Gnerro and Federica Mingolla, the two ‘judges’ of the Tiro Leader Climbing Challenge in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley. Until October two climbs, one for men and one for women, at the historic crag La città di Uruk await the first free ascent; €...
Histoire sans Fin free at last on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Seb Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
17/08/2021 - Alpinism
Histoire sans Fin free at last on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Seb Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and Sébastien Berthe have made the first free ascent of Histoire sans Fin on Petit Clocher du Portalet in Switzerland, an 8b+ multi-pitch they describe ravingly as 'the best granite multipitch of the grade in Europe.' Vanhee reports.
Peru's Huanka Punta provides another climb to Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
13/08/2021 - Alpinism
Peru's Huanka Punta provides another climb to Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Leire (300m, 6b) a new multi-pitch route on the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
09/08/2021 - Alpinism
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
On the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou e Manu Ponce have established Super Canalizos (6c+, 475m) describing the multi-pitch climb as a ‘perfect sculpture.’
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
05/08/2021 - Alpinism
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
Austrian mountain guide Christoph Schranz has established, and subsequently freed, Ocha-Schau-Schuich, a 300m multi-pitch alpine climb graded 8c on Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria
Sébastien Berthe repeats Arco Iris at Montserrat, 8c+ multipitch freed by Edu Marín
30/07/2021 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe repeats Arco Iris at Montserrat, 8c+ multipitch freed by Edu Marín
At Montserrat in Spain Belgian climber Seb Berthe has made the first repeat of Arco Iris, the 200m 8c+ multi-pitch freed by Edu Marín in 2020.
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
28/07/2021 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italia: climbing at Ferentillo
The third episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's. After Finale Ligure and Sperlonga, the third stop are the crags at Ferentillo in the heart of Umbria.
Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster add Sinnfresser to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
23/07/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster add Sinnfresser to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
Simon Messner and Philipp Prünster have made the first ascent of Sinnfresser, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites.