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Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
07/03/2013 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
01/03/2013 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
The thoughts about alpinism in Patagonia by Hansjörg Auer who this season, apart from establishing a new route up Aguja Guillaumet with Mario Walder, suddenly had to battle hard against the infamous Patagonian storms.
Couloir Marbrèe off-piste ski descent, Courmayeur
Couloir Marbrèe off-piste ski descent, Courmayeur
Mountain Guide Rudy Buccella introduces the Marbrèe couloir freeride descent above Courmayeur, a long and beautiful off-piste run in the Mont Blanc massif.
UIAA press release: Second wave of via ferrata set recalls within six months
25/02/2013 - Gear
UIAA press release: Second wave of via ferrata set recalls within six months
We have received and published the press release of the UIAA concerning the second recall in the last six months of Rope-friction Via Ferrata sets. We hope that in the near future this official press release will be translated in the languages of other countries concerned. On their websites a...
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
25/02/2013 - Climbing
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed...
King of Dolomites at San Martino di Castrozza
19/02/2013 - Events
King of Dolomites at San Martino di Castrozza
From 23- 24 February 2013 San Martino di Castrozza hosts King of Dolomites, the two-day photo contest to shoot the most beautiful freeride photo of the Dolomites.
International congress: New Advances in Mountain Medicine and Emergency – second edition
07/02/2013 - Alpinism
International congress: New Advances in Mountain Medicine and Emergency – second edition
The second international congress entitled “New Advances in Mountain Medicine and Emergency” will be held at the Atahotel in Varese on April 18th and 19th, 2013, organised by the Università degli Studi dell’Insubria in collaboration with the Institute of Mountain Emergency Medicine, part of the EUR.AC of Bolzano.
Monte Amiata, new trad and boulders by Michele Caminati
22/01/2013 - Climbing
Monte Amiata, new trad and boulders by Michele Caminati
On Tuscany's Monte Amiata Michele Caminati has freed the boulder problem Mondo Bastardo 8B and the trad route Un friend per amico E6 6c.
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
Two videos by Cheyne Lempe from Yosemite concerning climbing safety: replacement of old bolts and the removal, off El Capitan, of the famous Death Block.
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of Italy, combining technical ability with hands on experience and mountain...
Manaslu, the Mountain Kingdom expedition ends with Luca Macchetto's summit
03/10/2012 - Alpinism
Manaslu, the Mountain Kingdom expedition ends with Luca Macchetto's summit
At 11:30 on 30 September 2012 Luca Macchetto reached the summit of Manaslu (8163m); this is the end of the Mountain Kingdom expedition to Manaslu which on 23/09/2012 was struck by an avalanche that killed 13 people. Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola also reached the summit on the 30th. The ascent...

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