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La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Yosemite bolt replacement and Death Block removal
Two videos by Cheyne Lempe from Yosemite concerning climbing safety: replacement of old bolts and the removal, off El Capitan, of the famous Death Block.
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of Italy, combining technical ability with hands on experience and mountain...
Manaslu, the Mountain Kingdom expedition ends with Luca Macchetto's summit
03/10/2012 - Alpinism
Manaslu, the Mountain Kingdom expedition ends with Luca Macchetto's summit
At 11:30 on 30 September 2012 Luca Macchetto reached the summit of Manaslu (8163m); this is the end of the Mountain Kingdom expedition to Manaslu which on 23/09/2012 was struck by an avalanche that killed 13 people. Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola also reached the summit on the 30th. The ascent...
Neil Gresham and his Olympiad climb
21/09/2012 - Interviews
Neil Gresham and his Olympiad climb
Interview with British climber Neil Gresham after his first ascent of the Deep Water Solo Olympiad 8b at Pembroke, Wales.
Precautionary recall of via ferrata sets Climbing Technology
01/09/2012 - Climbing
Precautionary recall of via ferrata sets Climbing Technology
As a precautionary measure Climbing Technology is recalling the following Via Ferrata Sets:
Recall of all Civetta II Full-Body Harnesses and Vertigo 400 Alpindonna Climbing Harnesses
02/08/2012 - Alpinism
Recall of all Civetta II Full-Body Harnesses and Vertigo 400 Alpindonna Climbing Harnesses
To rule out any possible risk for the user, SALEWA has decided to recall some Civetta II full-body harnesses and Vertigo 400 Alpindonna harnesses as a precautionary measure.
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
17/07/2012 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
With regards to last Thursday's tragedy which claimed the lives of 9 climbers on Mont Maudit, we have received the thoughts of Dr. Luigi Festi, director of the International Masters Course in Mountain Medicine at the University of Insubria and Medical Commission President of the Lombardy branch of the...
Superbalance, Polar Sun Spire, Baffin, interview with Marek Raganowicz
05/07/2012 - Alpinism
Superbalance, Polar Sun Spire, Baffin, interview with Marek Raganowicz
Interview with Polish climber Marek Raganowicz who in April and May 2012 established a new big wall climb, Superbalance (VII, A4, M7+) up Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island together with Marcin Tomaszewski.
Tribute to Kalymnos: the theme for a short film by Andrea Di Bari
04/07/2012 - Climbing
Tribute to Kalymnos: the theme for a short film by Andrea Di Bari
Kalymnos, the climbing, imagination and homage of a film director. A tribute to Kalymnos and all those who are suffering by Andrea Di Bari, the Italian filmmaker and climber who first "discovered" the huge climbing potential on this Greek island.
Hans Florine, The Nose Speed interview
21/06/2012 - Interviews
Hans Florine, The Nose Speed interview
Interview with American climber Hans Florine after his 17/06/2012 speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite set with Alex Honnold.
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
24/05/2012 - Interviews
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
Interview with Simone Moro who descended to Everst Base Camp today and abandoned his project of climbing Everest and then Lhotse without supplementary oxygen due to the massive crowds on the mountain (more than 200 are currently attempting to reach its summit) and the dangers association with this overcrowding.

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