474 News found

Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.

In mid-May Swiss climber Nina Caprez made a rare female ascent of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, a few days after an ascent by her boyfriend Cédric Lachat.

Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Reinhard Ranner have carried out the first ascent of Il volo di Pegasus (260m, 7a) on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.

Young Adam Ondra is visiting Britain, in particular the climbs at Malham Cove and Kilnsey where he has climbed and attempted some of the hardest routes in the country established by Steve McClure.

Maja Vidmar from Slovenia has carried out her first ever on-sight of an 8b+, Humildes pa casa 8b+ at Oliana, Spain

8-year-old Tito Traversa has redpointed his first 8a, Faith at Donnas in Valle d'Aosta, Italy

In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.

Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic after his his January and February climbs which resulted in two 8c and one 8b+ on-sights on the same day in Claret, France, as well as a host of first ascents at Madonna della Rota, Italy

Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.

Polish climber Mateusz Haladaj has repeated Erfolg ist trainierbar reclimbed 9a at the Adlitzgraeben in Austria and Los Inconformistas 9a at Rodellar, Spain.

Interview with Samuel Anthamatten after the first ascent of the South-South-East Face of Jasemba, Nepal via their Hook or Crook (VI, 1550m, 90°, M5.

Local climber and guidebook writer Ekaitz Maiz introduces Etxauri, with more than 800 routes from 4a to 9a one of the most important crags in the Basque country, Spain.

Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.

Jörg Andreas and Felix Neumärker from Germany carried out the first repeat of Zahir on the Wendenstöcke in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland, extending a pitch and upgrading it to 8c.

Ekaitz Maiz has made the first ascent of Basapiztien eremua 9a at Etxauri, Spain.

Interview with Adam Ondra who on 20/10/2009 made the first ascent of his hardest route ever, Marina Superstar at Bronx at the crag Grotta San Giovanni in Sardinia. The young Czech climber has "suggested" 9a+/b!