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The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
16/10/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and making the first free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m).
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend
29/09/2010 - Climbing
Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend
German climbing legend Kurt Albert died yesterday at 20.45 aged 56 following the accident last Sunday on a via ferrata in Bavaria, Germany on Sunday.
Millstone, rock climbing in England
27/09/2010 - Climbing
Millstone, rock climbing in England
Millstone Edge is one of the most popular gritstone crags in England. Overlooking Hathersage and just a stone's throw from Sheffield, this former quarry hosts some of the finest gritstone lines in the country.
Eventyr, new route in Greenland for Gietl, Kopp, Schäli and Ulrich
29/08/2010 - Alpinism
Eventyr, new route in Greenland for Gietl, Kopp, Schäli and Ulrich
At the start of August an international team of alpinists comprised of Roger Schäli, Thomas Ulrich, Simon Gietl and Daniel Kopp carried out the first ascent of Eventyr (7a+, 1300m) on the Grundtvigskirken in Greenland.
40 anni rifugio Falier, first free ascent by Mittersteiner and Renzler in Marmolada
13/08/2010 - Climbing
40 anni rifugio Falier, first free ascent by Mittersteiner and Renzler in Marmolada
Roland Mittersteiner and Oliver Renzler have carried out the first free ascent of "40 anni rifugio Falier", established by Igor Koller and Dino Kuran in 1993 with the use of aid and now graded 7c+.
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
02/08/2010 - Events
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
4 evenings and 4 great mountaineering stories as told by Valery Babanov, Hans Kammerlander, Silvio Mondinelli and Stevie Haston. The evenings will be introduced by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com.
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
20/07/2010 - Alpinism
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
David Lama, Bellavista and Voie Petit
13/07/2010 - Climbing
David Lama, Bellavista and Voie Petit
Double takings for David Lama, who in just a couple of weeks repeated two important routes in the Alps, Bellavista 8c on the Cima Ovest of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Voie Petit 8b on Gran Capucin.
Arco Rock Legends 2010, the nominations
22/06/2010 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2010, the nominations
All the nominations for the V edition of the Arco Rock Legends which will take place on Saturday 17 July 2010 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) during the XXIV Rock Master. This year the legendary competition has been brought forward from September to July as it serves as the pre-event...
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Hotel Supramonte for Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
14/06/2010 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte for Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat
In mid-May Swiss climber Nina Caprez made a rare female ascent of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, a few days after an ascent by her boyfriend Cédric Lachat.
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Reinhard Ranner have carried out the first ascent of Il volo di Pegasus (260m, 7a) on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.
Adam Ondra tours and tears up Malham Cove and Kilnsey in England
04/05/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra tours and tears up Malham Cove and Kilnsey in England
Young Adam Ondra is visiting Britain, in particular the climbs at Malham Cove and Kilnsey where he has climbed and attempted some of the hardest routes in the country established by Steve McClure.