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Alexander Megos repeats King Capella at Siurana in Spain
22/11/2021 - Climbing
Alexander Megos repeats King Capella at Siurana in Spain
German rock climber Alex Megos has repeated King Capella at Siurana in Spain. The climb was first ascended by William Bosi earlier this year and originally graded 9b+.
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing
22/11/2021 - Climbing
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing
Three women, and three climbs, which helped change the course of rock climbing: Luisa Iovane on Comeback in Val San Nicolò in 1986, Lynn Hill on The Nose in 1993 and Josune Bereziartu on Bain de Sang in 2002. Our article written in conjunction with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday,...
Jorg Verhoeven: the past, present and future of indoor and outdoor climbing
18/11/2021 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven: the past, present and future of indoor and outdoor climbing
36-year-old Dutchman Jorg Verhoven has been climbing for over 25 years and his achievements span the climbing spectrum from big walls in Yosemite to 8C boulders, after having won the Lead World Cup 2006. His thoughts about the state of climbing indoors and outdoor feature in the fourth article of...
Valle dell'Orco and the La Sportiva Athletes Climbing Meeting 2021
12/11/2021 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco and the La Sportiva Athletes Climbing Meeting 2021
The video and the report of the La Sportiva Athletes Climbing Meeting which was took place from 11-13 October 2021 in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview
08/11/2021 - Interviews
Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview
Interview with Slovenian rock climber Janja Garnbret who just the other day completed the coveted first female 8c onsight with her ascent of Fish Eye at Oliana in Spain. Two days later she doubled her takings by on sighting the 8c American Hustle.
Nirmal Purja and the film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible
07/11/2021 - Alpinism
Nirmal Purja and the film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible
The trailer to 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, the film that documents the attempts of Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in seven months.
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
05/11/2021 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
The report by Jacopo Lacher who, at the end of October in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, freed the trad climbs ‘Blood Diamond’ at the crag Diamante and an old project of Adriano Trombetta at the base of Sergent, now called Shikantaza (aka. ‘Il progetto Tromba’).
Janja Garnbret makes climbing history with first female 8c onsight, Fish Eye at Oliana
03/11/2021 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret makes climbing history with first female 8c onsight, Fish Eye at Oliana
Slovenian rock climber Janja Garnbret has onsighted Fish Eye at Oliana in Spain. In doing so, the 22-year-old has become the first woman in the world to onsight 8c.
Katherine Choong climbs hard in Verdon and Engelberg
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Katherine Choong climbs hard in Verdon and Engelberg
Swiss rock climber Katherine Choong has repeated 'Une Jolie Fleur dans une Peau de Vache' (300m, 8b) in the Verdon Gorge, France, and '6.4 Sekunden' (170m, 8b/+) at Engelberg in Switzerland.
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
On the Casetti wall in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Il Pirata (8a max, 160m), a new multipitch dedicated to legendary Italian cyclist Marco Pantani.
Magnus Midtbø first climber to reach 1 million subscribers on Youtube
22/10/2021 - Climbing
Magnus Midtbø first climber to reach 1 million subscribers on Youtube
Norwegian rock climber Magnus Midtbø has reached 1 million subscribers on his Youtube channel. His is the first climbing channel to reach this benchmark number.
Jakob Schubert climbs Es Pontas psicobloc on Mallorca
21/10/2021 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert climbs Es Pontas psicobloc on Mallorca
On the island of Mallorca Jakob Schubert has repeated the famous deep water solo Es Pontas, put up by Chris Sharma in 2006.
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
15/10/2021 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
30-year-old Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Alasha, the extremely difficult Deep Water Solo on the island of Mallorca. First ascended by Chris Sharma in 2016, the Austrian climber feels the psicobloc warrants 9a.
Lorenzo Bogliacino, Gabriele Moroni nail Naturalmente 9a+ at San Rocchino, Italy
14/10/2021 - Climbing
Lorenzo Bogliacino, Gabriele Moroni nail Naturalmente 9a+ at San Rocchino, Italy
At the crag San Rocchino close to Camaiore in Tuscany, Italy, Gabriele Moroni then Lorenzo Bogliacino have repeated Naturalmente. Graded 9a+, the route was freed by Adam Ondra in 2017 and unrepeated.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.