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Polo sends Talk is cheap 8c at Misja Pec
14/12/2004 - Climbing
Polo sends Talk is cheap 8c at Misja Pec
On 8 december Andrea Poli sent "Talk is cheap" 8c, on 12 December "Missing Link" 8b+ at Misja Pec, Slovenia.
McClure deep water solos 8b+
03/12/2004 - Climbing
McClure deep water solos 8b+
On 15/09/2004 Steve McClure made the first ascent of Ring of Fire, 8b+, Holy Grail Wall, Mana Island, Croatia, the hardest deep water solo in the world.
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
25/11/2004 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma, Winter Expedition 2004-2005
On 29/11, Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Zaluski Jacek Jawien and Piotr Morawski head for Tibetto attempt the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (8027m).
Usobiaga 8b+ on-sight, Rouhling 9a F.A.
17/11/2004 - Climbing
Usobiaga 8b+ on-sight, Rouhling 9a F.A.
Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted Millenium 8b+ at Misja Pec, while Fred Rouhling has made teh first ascent of Mandallaz Drive at d’Allonzier la Caille, Haute-Savoie
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
09/11/2004 - Climbing
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
At the start of October more than 500 climbers from all over the world gathered in Kalymnos for the second Kalymnos Rock Climbing Festival.
Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
05/11/2004 - Climbing
Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
In mid-October Jean-François Beaulieu from Canada pinkpointed an old aid project, La Zébrée at Mont-King, Val David, Québec, grading it 8b+
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
04/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
Last week the Italian Ragni di Lecco celebrated the 30th anniversary of the first ascent of the emblem of Patagonian mountaineering, the West Face of Cerro Torre.
Orco Valley new routes
26/10/2004 - Climbing
Orco Valley new routes
At the end of September Massimo Farina and Ezio Marlier put up two new routes in the mythical granite Valle dell' Orco (Italy), Tatanka (270m, max 7c, 6c obbl.) and Tomawauk Dance (165m, max 7c, 7a obbl.).
Yuji Hirayama, the White Zombie 8c onsight interview
07/10/2004 - Interviews
Yuji Hirayama, the White Zombie 8c onsight interview
An interview with Yuji Hirayama after the first ever 8c on-sight: White Zombi in the Baltzola Cave, Spain.
Remembering Roberto Bassi
07/10/2004 - Climbing
Remembering Roberto Bassi
28 September marks the 10th anniversary of Roberto Bassi's death. To remember the Italian climber but also share his masterpieces with those climbers who do not know about him, the Italian Alpin Club Sezione CAI SAT di Mattarello (TN) and Bassi's friends have organised an evening at the hall at...
Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
29/09/2004 - Climbing
Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti have made the first ascent of "Enfant de sable" 7a max, 6c obl., on the south face of Jbel Tramazine, High Atlas, Morocco.
Yosmite Camp 4 restrictions
27/09/2004 - Climbing
Yosmite Camp 4 restrictions
While the 30 year-old Yosemite Camp 4 restrictions are to come into effect, the Climber Association has organised the first climber volunateer day of the autumn season.
New route dedicated to Cadore Mountain Rescue
24/09/2004 - Alpinism
New route dedicated to Cadore Mountain Rescue
On 27 and 28 August Michele Zandegiacomo Mazzon and Simone Corte Pause made the first ascent of a new route on the south face of Cima Auronzo, Dolomites.
FFA of Cani morti by Manolo and Scarian
14/09/2004 - Interviews
FFA of Cani morti by Manolo and Scarian
On 23 August Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla and Riccardo "Sky" Scarian both made the first free ascent of "Cani morti", their 2003 testpiece on the north face of Campanile Basso di Lastei, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Arco Rock Master 2004
03/09/2004 - Competitions
Arco Rock Master 2004
The Rock Master 2004 will take place in Arco di Trento on 3-4 September 2004.
Brakk Zang: new route by Stucchi, Davila, Lazzarini, Colnago
01/09/2004 - Alpinism
Brakk Zang: new route by Stucchi, Davila, Lazzarini, Colnago
From 12 -14/08/2004 Silvestro Stucchi, Elena Davila, Anna Lazzarini and Enea Colnago made the first ascent of "Hasta la vista David" (VI+, A1), a new 750m route up the SW Face of Brakk Zang (Baltistan-Pakistan).