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Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
04/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
03/10/2018 - Alpinism
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Verdon Gorge: Sébastien Bouin frees his climbing masterpiece at La Ramirole
02/10/2018 - Climbing
Verdon Gorge: Sébastien Bouin frees his climbing masterpiece at La Ramirole
At the Gorges du Verdon in France Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of 'La cote d'usure', a 60-meter sport climb graded 9a+ bolted by the French climber nine years ago.
Jain Kim and Stefano Ghisolfi colossal at Kranj
01/10/2018 - Competitions
Jain Kim and Stefano Ghisolfi colossal at Kranj
Yesterday at Kranj in Slovenia Jain Kim and Stefano Ghisolfi won the fifth stage of the Lead World Cup 2018. Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret won silver, Masahiro Highuchi and Hannah Schubert bronze.
Adam Ondra in Bosnia frees High Line, one of best first ascents ever
29/09/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra in Bosnia frees High Line, one of best first ascents ever
Czech climber Adam Ondra has freed the High Line at Banja Luka in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Graded 9a+, the 25-year-old has described this as called it 'one of my best first ascents ever'.
New boulders in Cresciano - winter 2017/2018
29/09/2018 - Climbing
New boulders in Cresciano - winter 2017/2018
James Webb, Samuel Ometz, Giuliano Cameroni and Sebsatian Cotting completing some of their climbing projects last winter in Cresciano, Switzerland.
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
28/09/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.
Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians
27/09/2018 - Alpinism
Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians
At the end of August 2018 Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi and Luca Vallata climbed the East Ridge of Chareze Ri North in the Rangtik valley in the Zanskar area of India. Climbed alpine style with one bivouac, Jullay Temù (1000m, 70° ice, V+) reaches the north...
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
26/09/2018 - Alpinism
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
25/09/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
This summer the South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Matteo Vinatzer completed Nuvole Bianche, a rock climb on Sas dla Porta to the east of Sas Rigais in the Geisler group, Dolomites.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Céüse Biographie sent by Stefano Carnati
23/09/2018 - Climbing
Céüse Biographie sent by Stefano Carnati
At Ceuse in France, Stefano Carnati has repeated Biographie, the world famous sport climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and recognised as the benchmark 9a+.
Lorenzo Puri: pure power bouldering
22/09/2018 - Climbing
Lorenzo Puri: pure power bouldering
The latest climbs of Italian boulderer Lorenzo Puri from Albarracin to Champorcher and Sustenpass.
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
21/09/2018 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla adds new climb to Aiguille Croux in Mont Blanc massif
The report by Federica Mingolla who, together with Gabriele Carrara, made the first ascent of L'isola che non c’è on Aiguille Croux above Val Veny in the Mont Blanc massif.
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
20/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
Interview with Italy’s François Cazzanelli who on 12 September 2018 teamed up with Switzerland’s Andreas Steindl to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
20/09/2018 - Alpinism
Cinque Torri: advice for climbing in the Dolomites haven
Six quick tips for rock climbing at the Cinque Torri from the Cortina Mountain Guides, prior to the upcoming meeting Delicious Climbing Dolomiti scheduled to takes place on Sunday 23 September 2018. By Paolino Tassi

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