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Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
23/01/2012 - Competitions
Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
In Andorra history repeated itself yesterday. The first stage of the Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012 was won once again by Kilian Jornet Burgada and Laetitia Roux.
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee
23/01/2012 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxim Tomilov win in Saas Fee
0-21/01/2012. At Saas Fee (Switzerland) Angelika Rainer from Italy and Maxim Tomilov from Russia won the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2012. In doing so they have won two events in a row and, in addition, the Swiss stage also counts as the European Championship. The Speed...
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Kennedy and Kruk and the Compressor route by fair means
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970.
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.
Dent du Jetoula, first ski descent by Capozzi and Bigio
Dent du Jetoula, first ski descent by Capozzi and Bigio
On 16/01/2012 Davide Capozzi and Stefano Bigio carried out the first ski and snowboard descent of the SE Ridge of the Dent du Jetoula (Mont Blanc range). Details of the ascent by Capozzi.
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
17/01/2012 - Alpinism
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).
Alex Honnold, new super highball at Bishop
16/01/2012 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, new super highball at Bishop
At the Buttermilks in Bishop (USA) Alex Honnold has freed Too Big to Flail, a super highball up the immense Luminance Block.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
13/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
12/01/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
Czech climber Adam Ondra talks to Planetmountain about the sport climbs he has failed to climb. Hubble, Three Degrees of Separation, Underground and many more.
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
11/01/2012 - Climbing
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and...
Gajum: Stefano Bianchi repeats Achtung Baby Plus 8b+
10/01/2012 - Climbing
Gajum: Stefano Bianchi repeats Achtung Baby Plus 8b+
Stefano Bianchi has carried out a rare repeat of the route Achtung Baby Plus 8b+ at the crag Gajum, Italy.
Shoshala, the film tribute to Giovanni Quirici
05/01/2012 - Alpinism
Shoshala, the film tribute to Giovanni Quirici
The full-length film Shoshala is now online, dedicated to Giovanni Quirici who died on the Eiger on 12/08/2011.
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
04/01/2012 - Alpinism
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti
Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
30/12/2011 - Interviews
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Dinosaur track discovered on Mount Pelmo, Dolomites
29/12/2011 - Environment
Dinosaur track discovered on Mount Pelmo, Dolomites
In September 2011 a group of five speleologists and mountaineers of La Venta Association spotted a possible track of dinosaur footprints at 3025 meters on the North-east ridge of Mount Pelmo in the Dolomites.