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Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
03/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
30/12/2011 - Interviews
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko travel towards their dream
Interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko, currently on their way to Nanga Parbat to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Dinosaur track discovered on Mount Pelmo, Dolomites
29/12/2011 - Environment
Dinosaur track discovered on Mount Pelmo, Dolomites
In September 2011 a group of five speleologists and mountaineers of La Venta Association spotted a possible track of dinosaur footprints at 3025 meters on the North-east ridge of Mount Pelmo in the Dolomites.
Aksu North Face, Nefedov brothers climb Transerfing in the Pamir Alay
16/12/2011 - Alpinism
Aksu North Face, Nefedov brothers climb Transerfing in the Pamir Alay
On 15 August 2011 Sergey and Andrey Nefedov completed the route Transerfing (1500m, 7b+), the first free climb up the North Face of Ak-Su (5217m) in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan.
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
30/10/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Kishtwar important Himalayan first ascent for David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost
David Lama, Stephan Siegrist, Denis Burdet and Rob Frost have established a new route up the NW Face via their Yoniverse to reach the summit of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m), Himalaya. Siegrist and Burdet then ascended the nearby untouched 6040m peak White Saphire.
Hungarob Combination, new multi-pitch on Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia
27/10/2011 - Climbing
Hungarob Combination, new multi-pitch on Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia
A German team of climbers comprised on Jörg Helfrich, Manuel Hofmann, Till Kramann and Alexander Stahl have put up Hungarob Combination (370m, 7c, 6c oblig) on the Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia. Trip report by Manuel Hofmann.
Cho Oyu and the Mountain Kingdom expedition
11/10/2011 - Alpinism
Cho Oyu and the Mountain Kingdom expedition
On 5 October the Mountain Kingdom Cho Oyu expedition returned to Kathmandu, unfortunately without having reached the 8201m summit of the Turquoise Goddess. Fabrizio Beozzi managed the first ski descent of the Messner variation from 6900m to 6000m.
Meru Shark's Fin, success for Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk
06/10/2011 - Alpinism
Meru Shark's Fin, success for Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk
American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk have successfully climbed a direct new route via the Shark's Fin on the NW face of Meru (6310m) in India's Garhwal Himalaya.
Kyrgyzstan, Djangart new routes by Danish expedition
28/09/2011 - Alpinism
Kyrgyzstan, Djangart new routes by Danish expedition
Danish alpinist Kristoffer Szilas reports about his expedition to the Djangart Region in Kyrgyzstan which resulted in four new routes.
In memory of Giovanni Quirici
26/08/2011 - Climbing
In memory of Giovanni Quirici
Swiss alpinist Giovanni Quirici fell to his death on 12 August while ascending the North Face of the Eiger.... a friend remembers him.
On the trails of the glaciers, second expedition to the Caucasus
27/07/2011 - Environment
On the trails of the glaciers, second expedition to the Caucasus
After the Karakorum, the second expedtiion entitled "On the trails of the glaciers" is now about to set off for a month in the Caucasus, coordinated by Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura and the association Macromicro.
Russian Latok III success
28/06/2011 - Alpinism
Russian Latok III success
On 25/06/2011 a Russian expedition comprised of Alexander Odintsov, Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeniy Dmitrienko summited Latok III (6949m) in Pakistan's Karakoram via the hitherto unclimbed West Face.
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
20/06/2011 - Alpinism
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
On 24/05/2011 Fabio Meraldi and Diego Giovannini established a new route up the East Spur of Kahiltna Peaks West (3914m, McKinley-Denali mountain chain, Alaska).

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