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Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer
Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and...
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto
Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto...
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar...
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François...
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
14/07/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Rosa speed enchainment by Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg
On 8 July 2020 the two Swiss mountaineers Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac completed the spectacular traverse of the 18 mountains in the Monte Rosa massif above 4000 meters in just 13 hours and 39 minutes.
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during...
Video: Edmond Joyeusaz skiing the Mont Blanc Brenva Face
Video: Edmond Joyeusaz skiing the Mont Blanc Brenva Face
The video of the mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz and his ski descent of the Brenva Face on Mont Blanc, carried out on 25/05/2020 down the climb first ascended by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1979.
New route on Mt Trud in Kazakhstan by Kirill Belotserkovskiy and Grisha Chsukin
18/06/2020 - Alpinism
New route on Mt Trud in Kazakhstan by Kirill Belotserkovskiy and Grisha Chsukin
The report by Kirill Belotserkovskiy about his new route up the west face of peak Trud in Kazakhstan climbed with Grisha Chsukin
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian...
Ski mountaineering in Turkey's Aladağlar mountains
Ski mountaineering in Turkey's Aladağlar mountains
Slovak mountain guide Miroslav Peťo reports about his ski touring trip to the Ala Dağlar mountain range in Turkey with Robert Vrlák and Rastislav Križan which resulted in a number of interesting descents including what is likely to be the...
Sea stacks in Donegal, Ireland, climbed by Will Gadd and Iain Miller
05/05/2020 - Alpinism
Sea stacks in Donegal, Ireland, climbed by Will Gadd and Iain Miller
Last summer Canada’s Will Gadd teamed up with Iain Miller to make a series of first ascents of some trad climbs on sea stacks in Ireland. These include Chaos Stack, reputed to be the last big unclimbed sea stack just...

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