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Chris Linder and his Window of Opportunity
04/02/2011 - Climbing
Chris Linder and his Window of Opportunity
American climber Chris Lindner speaks about his Window of Opportunity 5.13+ in California and the use of removable bolts..
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
03/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, Moro, Urubko and Richards reach Camp 1
After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
02/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
At 11:28 local time Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. This is the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world, a historic climb which is also the first winter ascent of one of the five 8000ers located in Pakistan.
Gasherbrum II in winter: Moro, Urubko and Richards poised for summit push
01/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Moro, Urubko and Richards poised for summit push
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards plan to set off from their Camp 3 at 6900m tonight for their first attempt at reaching the summit of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan).
Tito Traversa, a summer and winter on the rise
01/02/2011 - Climbing
Tito Traversa, a summer and winter on the rise
A report of a summer and winter spent climbing by Tito Traversa who, aged nine, has now sent his first 8b, "Je est un autre" at Castillon (France)
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
10/01/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011, Bendler and Tolokonina win in Cheongsong, Korea
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup took place in Cheongsong, Korea, on 8 and 9 January 2011 and was won by Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maxim Tomilov and Irina Bagaeva.
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
08/01/2011 - Alpinism
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
American alpinists Colin Haley, Mikey Schaefer and Jens Holsten have established 'Jardines Japoneses', (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1) on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia.
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
04/01/2011 - Alpinism
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
At the end of 2010 James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Renan Ozturk and Alex Honnold established a series of new routes in the Ennedi Range in Chad.
More hard US trad at the New River Gorge and Shawagunks
22/12/2010 - Climbing
More hard US trad at the New River Gorge and Shawagunks
At the Shawagunks Brian Kim established the trad route Monumental 5.13d, while at the New River Gorge Brett Perkins climbed Proper Soul 5.14a R/X without bolts but with trad gear.
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
09/12/2010 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
Rosso 70, the film directed by Francesco Mansutti and Vinicio Stefanello and which retraces the 70 yera mountaineering history f the Scoiattoli mountaineering club in Cortina, has won the Jury's Special Prize during the Bulgaria's X° International Mountain Film Festival in Bansko
The Greatest Flasher
06/12/2010 - Climbing
The Greatest Flasher
Paul Robinson stars in Carlo Traversi's bouldering film The Greatest Flasher.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Mescalito goes live on El Capitan for Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
17/11/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito goes live on El Capitan for Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are currently attempting to free their Mescalito Dawn Wall project on El Capitan in Yosemite.