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Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
23/11/2021 - Alpinism
Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
Japanese mountaineer Yasushi Yamanoi is to receive the13th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated in Briançon, France, from 26 to 29 November.
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
05/11/2021 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
The report by Jacopo Lacher who, at the end of October in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, freed the trad climbs ‘Blood Diamond’ at the crag Diamante and an old project of Adriano Trombetta at the base of Sergent, now called Shikantaza (aka. ‘Il progetto Tromba’).
East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz
03/11/2021 - Alpinism
East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz
The final report by Nicolas Favresse who this summer with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta, climbed a series of new routes in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord area of Eastern Greenland
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
18/10/2021 - Alpinism
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher and Michele Cagol have made the first ascent of Bepino, a new multi-pitch rock climb on the west face of Cima Uomo (2543m) in the Brenta Dolomites to remember their father-in-law Giuseppe Deavi. The route was subsequently freed by Bepino's nephew and Rolando's son, Alessandro Larcher. The three...
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
13/10/2021 - Alpinism
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
This summer James Price made a first ascent of Passu Sar North (6884m) and opened new routes on Passu Diar (7295m) and Maidon Sar (6090m), also referred to as Darmyani Peak, by climbing the mountain's south ridge.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
01/10/2021 - Alpinism
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
27/09/2021 - Alpinism
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi 6,833m.
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
21/09/2021 - Alpinism
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
The second report by Nicolas Favresse who in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord in Greenland has established another 5 new big walls with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta.
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
20/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum
Simon Messner reports about his August 2021 attempt with Martin Sieberer to climb Praqpa Ri (7.134m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
Juho Knuuttila, Misha Mishin climb Storskiva on Lofoten's Moskensøya Island in Norway
31/08/2021 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila, Misha Mishin climb Storskiva on Lofoten's Moskensøya Island in Norway
Juho Knuuttila (26) from Finland and Misha Mishin (27) from Russia have established Ørneeggen, the first climb up the West Face of Mt. Storskiva (848m) on the island of Moskensøya off the Lofoten islands in Norway. Knuuttila reports about the 'true adventure climbing' they experienced in August 2021.
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
24/08/2021 - Alpinism
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
Mountaineers Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo have established a series of new routes in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. Highlights included ascents of Pik Alpinist (5482m) and Pik Korolyova (5816m).
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...

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