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Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
05/07/2022 - Alpinism
Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
Italian alpinists Roger Bovard, Marco Camandona, François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Jerome Perruquet and Pietro Picco all summited Nanga Parbat (8126m) yesterday without supplementary oxygen. Cesar Rosales from Peru reached the summit of the ninth highest mountain in the world with the Valle d'Aosta team.
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Micher Quito have established two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru: Hanan pacha (90°/425m) on Urus Oeste and Emmoa (M6/75°/640m) on Urus Oeste III.
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
24/06/2022 - Alpinism
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
23/06/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula Grande.
Watch Georgian first ascents on Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi in Hindu Kush
19/06/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Georgian first ascents on Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi in Hindu Kush
The video of the Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze who in 2021 completed the first ascent of the NW summit of Saraghrar and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan.
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
22/05/2022 - Alpinism
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 21 May 2022, 43-year-old German alpinist David Göttler reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is is sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
L'appel de la Sirène / Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer climbing on Greenland's Siren Tower
19/05/2022 - Alpinism
L'appel de la Sirène / Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer climbing on Greenland's Siren Tower
The trailer of L'appel de la Sirène, the film that documents the first ascent of Forum (840m, 7c) on Siren Tower in Greenland, established by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer in summer 2021.
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
18/05/2022 - Alpinism
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
Interview with British mountaineer Paul Ramsden who with Tim Miller completed an alpine style first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) up the north face of a previously unclimbed and unnamed 6563m peak now called Jugal Spire in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal
Baffin Island Polar Moon, big first ski descent by Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger
Baffin Island Polar Moon, big first ski descent by Brette Harrington, Christina Lustenberger
On 4 May 2022 Brette Harrington and Christina Lustenberger made the first ski descent of Polar Moon (1200m, 45°) on Walker Arm, Baffin Island
Changabang West Wall repeated after 46 years by Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Matthew Scholes
09/05/2022 - Alpinism
Changabang West Wall repeated after 46 years by Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Matthew Scholes
Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes from Australia and Daniel Joll from New Zealand have made the coveted second ascent of the West Wall of Changabang (6880m) in India, first climbed by British mountaineers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976.
Watch Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh establish Heavenly Trap on Baruntse
08/04/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh establish Heavenly Trap on Baruntse
The video of Czech mountaineers Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh making the first ascent of Heavenly Trap on the West Face of Baruntse (7129m) in Nepal in 2021.
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
30/03/2022 - Interviews
Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
Interview with Andrea Lanfri, the Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca recently arrived in Nepal with mountain guide Luca Montanari to attempt to climb Everest
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon call off Manaslu winter expedition
10/02/2022 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon call off Manaslu winter expedition
The winter expedition to Manaslu led by Simone Moro and Alex Txikon has been called off due to constant snowfall and the elevated risk of avalanches.

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