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Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).
La farfalla tigre, new mixed climb up Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
La farfalla tigre, new mixed climb up Cima Bifora, Monte Nero di Presanella
Giancarlo Bellotti, Fernando Fusari and Giovanni Ghezzi have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of the mixed outing La farfalla tigre (WI4 M6, 430m) on Cima Bifora (Monte Nero di Presanella, Adamello-Presanella group, Central Alps).
Federica Mingolla climbing Digital Crack, the ascent seen through the eyes of Federico Ravassard
11/11/2015 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbing Digital Crack, the ascent seen through the eyes of Federico Ravassard
Climbing photographer Federico Ravassard recalls, with words, photos and a video, Federica Mingolla's ascent of Digital Crack, the 8a she repeated last summer on Grand Gendarme dell'Arête des Cosmiques, Mont Blanc.
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
07/11/2015 - Alpinism
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
The report by Walter Polidori, leader of the Italian 1 to 1 Challenge, the climbing expedition to Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Janja Garnbret climbs 8c+ at Kotecnik in Slovenia
06/11/2015 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret climbs 8c+ at Kotecnik in Slovenia
Last weekend Slovenian sports climber Janja Garnbret redpointed her first 8c+, Miza za šest at Kotecnik in Slovenia.
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
06/11/2015 - Climbing
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
The series 'Crags for each season' published together with Vertical-Life.info continues. The seventh crag is the new sport climbing and bouldering area Spiluck - Spelonca close to Vahrn / Brixen in Italy's South Tyrol.
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
05/11/2015 - Alpinism
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...
Mont Blanc: the land of toys
Mont Blanc: the land of toys
The trailer of the new short film "Mont Blanc: the land of toys" by Luca Rolli, starring Davide Capozzi, Andreas Fransson, Francesco Civra Dano, Giulia Monego and Julien Herry.
Slovenians climb new routes in Kyrgyzstan
02/11/2015 - Climbing
Slovenians climb new routes in Kyrgyzstan
The trip report by Miha Hauptman who, together with Matjaž Cotar, Anže Jerše and Uroš Stanonik travelled to the Kyzyl Asker glacier (Western Kokshaal Too range) in Kyrgyzstan and climbed a flurry of probable new routes.
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
29/10/2015 - Alpinism
Jure's Challenge - the climb in memory of Jure Breceljnik in Slovenia
On Saturday 18 October 2015 a group of Icelandic and Slovenian climbers joined forces to climb six peaks in the Kamnik - Savinja Alps in memory of their Jure Breceljnik who died last July aged 41, in order to raise funds for Jure's baby daughter Ela Breceljnik and her mother...
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden complete first ascent of Gave Ding in Nepal
28/10/2015 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden complete first ascent of Gave Ding in Nepal
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have made the first ascent of Gave Ding (6,400m) in Nepal's Himalaya.
Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga
28/10/2015 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni repeats Ultimo Movimento by Manolo at Totoga
The report by Alessandro Zeni who on 26/10/2015 at Totoga in the Primiero Dolomites carried out the third ascent of Ultimo Movimento, freed by Maurizio Manolo Zanolla in 1986 and famous for being the first 8b sports climb in Italy.
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
27/10/2015 - Climbing
Sport climbing safety, some big little steps to start off with
Some quick thoughts and an "outburst" by Nicola Tondini - Italian mountain guide and director of the King Rock climbing wall in Verona - about sport climbing safety. Safe climbing must begin with big little steps (such as the correct use of belay devices) and requires help and awareness from...
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
27/10/2015 - Alpinism
Le Prestige des Écrins, new ice gully climbed on Pic Sans Nom
From 19 - 21 October 2015 Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet and Jonathan Joly made the first ascent of Le Prestige des Écrins, a new 1000m mixed climb graded V, M6+, 6a on Pic Sans Nom (3913m) in France’s Ecrins massif.
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
On 25/09/2015 the Russian mountaineers Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dozhdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko completed the first ascent of Thulagi Chuli (7059m) a hitherto unclimbed peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new route up the West Face is called Happy Birthday, is 1850m high and is graded TD+, VI (5c),...
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was completed in 2015 after three days of effort that included...

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