231 News found

The video of Chris Sharma and his 2001 first ascent of Biographie (also known as Realization ) at Ceuse in France.

The Piolet d'Or gets underway in Courmayeur and Chamonix today and 2012 celebrates the 20th anniversary of the world's most famous alpinism award. Four days of international alpinism at the foot of Mont Blanc to discuss, watch and celebrate alpinism in all its forms, to pay homage to Walter Bonatti...

The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.

With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.

On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.

On 3 January Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Mount Tyree (Antarctic). In doing so he has become the first person to climb the 7 second highest peaks on all seven continents.

At the start of December Colin Haley and Jorge Ackerman completed a new route up Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia: El Caracol (500m, 5.9, A1+, M4). On 7 December Haley soloed Aguja Innominata via the Anglo-American route 400m 6c (6b+ A0).

The program of the IXX Piolet d'Or which will be held in Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc) from 13 - 16 April 2011. All the awards, conferences, lectures and debates of one of the most important mountaineering events in the world.

Fabio Valseschini talks about his recent great winter solo ascent of the Via dei 5 di Valmadrera up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites), as well as his alpinism and his love for the mountains.

In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).

Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.

In August David Lama from Austria carried out the first ascent of Lülü 8c+ at Céüse, while 15 year old Enzo Oddo from France repeated Chris Sharma's Realization / Biographie 9a+ and Alizée Dufraisse repeated Arcadémicien des Crépis 8c

Polish climber Mateusz Haladaj has repeated his third 9a, Martin Krpan at Misja Pec, Slovenia.

Three alpinists weere airlifted to safety by helicopter from an altitude of 6950m on Annapurna yesterday, while Spanish mountaineer Tolo Calafat passed away.

On 27/04/2010 the South Korean alpinist Miss Oh Eun-Sun reached the summit of Annapurna and, in doing so, has become the first woman in the world to climb all fourteen 8000ers. In the meantime though an alpinist is in trouble on the 10th highest mountain in the world...

On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.