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Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Sherpa Chhewang Nima, unsuccessful search on Baruntse abandoned
27/10/2010 - Alpinism
Sherpa Chhewang Nima, unsuccessful search on Baruntse abandoned
Two days ago the unsuccessful search for Chhewang Nima Sherpa was called off after he was hit swept away by an avalanche on Baruntse (7129m) on 23 October. He was considered one of the most experienced Himalayan mountaineers.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.
Sílvia Vidal, Naufragi big wall in Kinnaur Valley, India
23/10/2010 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal, Naufragi big wall in Kinnaur Valley, India
From 15/08/2010 to 08/09/2010 big wall specialist Sílvia Vidal from Spain established Naufragi (1050m, A4+/6a+) in the Kinnaur Valley, India
Mescalito project El Capitan, Caldwell and Jorgeson progress
20/10/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito project El Capitan, Caldwell and Jorgeson progress
We last reported from Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in March when they were working on the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project on El Capitan in Yosemite. The summer set in before the two managed to free all the pitches of this massive big wall and now, with cooler...
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
16/10/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and making the first free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m).
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Sulamar North Face first ascent by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
04/10/2010 - Alpinism
Sulamar North Face first ascent by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have carried out the first ascent of the North Face of Sulamar, China
Walter Nones dies on Cho Oyu
03/10/2010 - Alpinism
Walter Nones dies on Cho Oyu
Walter Nones has died on Cho Oyu (8201m), the sixth highest mountain in the world. His death has been confirmed directly by the wife of the Italian alpinist.
Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend
29/09/2010 - Climbing
Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend
German climbing legend Kurt Albert died yesterday at 20.45 aged 56 following the accident last Sunday on a via ferrata in Bavaria, Germany on Sunday.
Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto, final routes in Greenland
09/09/2010 - Alpinism
Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto, final routes in Greenland
Nico Favresse, his brother Olivier, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto are now sailing home after a final flurry up the granite walls of Greenland.
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
08/09/2010 - Alpinism
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
Christian Stangl, the Austrian alpinist who had claimed the only K2 ascent in this pre-monsoon season, admitted yesterday to not having reached the summit, as had been contested by a part of the mountaineering community.
Pakistan: new route in the Nangmah Valley
07/09/2010 - Alpinism
Pakistan: new route in the Nangmah Valley
Leopoldo Faria, Rui Rosado, Ana and Bruno Silva Gaspar from Portugal have established "Off-Dido" (7a+ 550m) on the Babar Wall in the Nangmah Valley in Pakistan.
Miss Oh Eun-Sun, doubts and certainties surrounding her 14x8000ers
01/09/2010 - Alpinism
Miss Oh Eun-Sun, doubts and certainties surrounding her 14x8000ers
A commission called upon by the Korean Alpine Federation has declared Miss Oh Eun-Sun's Kangchenjunga ascent as improbable, thus raising doubts as to whether the Korean was the first woman to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks.
Eventyr, new route in Greenland for Gietl, Kopp, Schäli and Ulrich
29/08/2010 - Alpinism
Eventyr, new route in Greenland for Gietl, Kopp, Schäli and Ulrich
At the start of August an international team of alpinists comprised of Roger Schäli, Thomas Ulrich, Simon Gietl and Daniel Kopp carried out the first ascent of Eventyr (7a+, 1300m) on the Grundtvigskirken in Greenland.