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Goodbye Achille Compagnoni
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Goodbye Achille Compagnoni
Achille Compagnoni, the Italian mountaineer who together with Lino Lacedelli first set foot on the summit of K2 at 18.00 on 31 July 1954, died in Aosta two days ago.
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
11/05/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map
The sixth Melloblocco 2009, the world's most important bouldering meeting, broke all records from 07 - 10 May 2009. At least 2500-3000 climbers gathered in Val Masino and Val di Mello and more than 6000 people visited the valley for this happening which embodies the joy of bouldering.
Dolomites double for the Riegler brothers
29/04/2009 - Environment
Dolomites double for the Riegler brothers
At Easter Florian and Martin Riegler carried out two noteworthy ascents in the Dolomites. On 7 April the South Tyrolean brothers made the first on-sight of "Karies" on Sassolungo while on 11 April they repeated Zauberlehrling on Cima Scotoni, all free and in a single day
Adam Ondra raids Italy
21/04/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra raids Italy
Adam Ondra has returned to Italy and carried out the first ascent of "Vento nei Capelli" 8c+/9a at Cornalba and "La grande linea dei sogni"8c+/9a at Erto.
The XVII Mezzalama stopped before the start, 17th edition postponed
The XVII Mezzalama stopped before the start, 17th edition postponed
The start of the Mezzalama Trophy scheduled for Sunday morning proved impossible due to deteriorating weather conditions which forced the organisers to postpone the start of more than 1000 athletes already at the start at Breuil - Cervinia. The classic ski mountaineering competition will probably be postponed a fortnight to...
XVII Mezzalama Trophy - 19 April 2009
16/04/2009 - Competitions
XVII Mezzalama Trophy - 19 April 2009
The 17th Mezzalama Trophy will take place on 19 April 2009. This classic ski mountaineering marathon takes place once every two years and dates back to 1933. As usual it starts at Breuil-Cervinia and finishes at Gressoney la Trinité via the Monte Rosa glacier and the summit of Monte Castore.
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.
Avalanche danger in Zillertal climbing areas
08/04/2009 - Climbing
Avalanche danger in Zillertal climbing areas
Due to the abundant snowfall this winter, Gerhard Hörhager has launched the following avalanche warning for Austria's Zillertal prior to Easter.
Cittadini della Galassia 1st ski descent for Lafranconi, Pina and Marazzi
Cittadini della Galassia 1st ski descent for Lafranconi, Pina and Marazzi
On 23 March Fabrizio Pina, Alessandro Lafranconi and Alberto Marazzi skied the route "Cittadini della galassia" (V/4) on the NW Face of Monte Legnone. In doing so they made the first ski descent of this long gully high above Collico, Italy.
Stalattica, Livigno icefall first ascent by Salini and Panizza
30/03/2009 - Alpinism
Stalattica, Livigno icefall first ascent by Salini and Panizza
Fabio Salini and Emanuel Panizza have carried out the first ascent of Stalattica (60m, IV,5,X), a beautiful ice fall in the Livingo area, Italy.
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
Conturines south gully: first ski descent of Tremolada and Oberbacher
On 19 March Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada carried out the first ski descent of the long and much-eyed Conturines south gully. On 15 March Tremolada had also carried the probable first repeat of the south gully on Piz Ciavazes, first skied by Tone Valeruz.
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).

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