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Verdon climbing: Toni Lamprecht frees Le Vieux et la mer
19/10/2009 - Climbing
Verdon climbing: Toni Lamprecht frees Le Vieux et la mer
In summer 2009 Toni Lamprecht, Uli Strunz and Benno Wagner carried out the first ascent of the multi-pitch "Le Vieux et la mer" 8b in the Verdon Gorge, France.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
13/10/2009 - Climbing
Frankenjura climbing updates: Markus Bock, Sarah Seeger and Adam Ondra
Sarah Seeger climbs Steinbock 8c in the Frankenjura, Markus Bock creates his hardest to date, The Man That Follows Hell 9a+, while Adam Ondra makes swift work of two other testpieces in Germany's premier climbing area.
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
09/10/2009 - Climbing
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
At the start of October Lisa Benetti climbed Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo, Italy.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Naranjo de Bulnes, Quinto Imperio, first repeat by Faria and Nogueira
On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
05/10/2009 - Climbing
Rocklands bouldering, Kilian Fischhuber flies Airstar
In August 2009 Kilian Fischhuber from Austria freed Airstar Fb8b, a long-standing problem at Rocklands, South Africa.
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra nets Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall, Austria
Interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic who on 20/09/2009 made the first ascent of an old Alexander Huber project, Fugu 9a at the Schleierwasserfall in Tyrol, Austria.
Tuolumne Meadows - Yosemite bouldering
24/09/2009 - Climbing
Tuolumne Meadows - Yosemite bouldering
An introduction to bouldering and rock climbing at Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park, California, USA by guidebook author Chris Summit.
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
21/09/2009 - Alpinism
New route on K7 for Larcher, Leoni, Cagol and Orlandi
On 10 August the Italian expedition Karakorum 2009 comprised of Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni, Michele Cagol and Elio Orlandi completed their new route The Children of Hushe (1100m, 7b A2) up the West Pillar of K7 (Charakusa Valley, Pakistan). On 14/08/2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out a fast...
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
The limits of sport climbing: 9a soon a warm-up?
15/09/2009 - Climbing
The limits of sport climbing: 9a soon a warm-up?
Patxi Usobiaga from Spain has climbed Hades 9a at the Austrian crag Götterwand second go, just like Adam Ondra on Der Heilige Graal 9a in Germany's Frankenjura.
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
08/09/2009 - Climbing
Baffin Island climbing, The Belgarian and more for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian Direct on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
06/09/2009 - Competitions
Eiter and Puigblanque reign supreme at Rock Master 2009!
Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque his fourth. With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand.
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
03/09/2009 - Climbing
Manolo tops vertical slab climbing with Eternit at Baule
On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
02/09/2009 - Alpinism
Asgard Baffin Island expedition success for Favresse, Villanueva and Hanssens
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Olivier Favresse have recently returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where they carried out the first ascents of 3 different routes and attempted to free climb the Bavarian route on the South Face of Mt. Asgard.
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
28/08/2009 - Climbing
Steve McClure climbs Hubble, Pete Robins Liquid Ambar
Two of Britain's most emblematic sport routes, Hubble 8c+ at Raven Tor and Liquid Ambar 8c at Lower Pen Trwyn, have recently been repeated by Steve McClure and Pete Robins respectively. The two climbs in question were established in 1990 by none other than Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt and...