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Seán Villanueva, Jon Griffin climb 'King line' on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
10/03/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva, Jon Griffin climb 'King line' on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
On the south face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia the alpinists Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll and Jonathan Griffin have made the first ascent of La Chaltenense (500m, 7a), a huge offwidth described by the first ascensionists as a 'king line'.
Alex Buisse and his Mont Blanc Lines climbing posters
01/03/2021 - Interviews
Alex Buisse and his Mont Blanc Lines climbing posters
Interview with French photographer Alex Buisse about his Mont Blanc Lines climbing poster project.
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of Patagonia has been climbed in its entirety in a single...
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
More steep skiing explored in the Dolomites
More steep skiing explored in the Dolomites
In 2020 Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the south face of Cima Ambrizzola in the Dolomites. A few months later they concluded another project with Davide D'Alpaos, namely the probable first descent of the west face of Croda...
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
25/11/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three bivouacs.
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni have made the first free ascent of Leap of Faith (8a+/b max, 7b+ obligatory, 500m), a big new multi-pitch up Poncione d'Alnasca in Switzerland.
Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber crown their Sonnenkönig on Untersberg
30/10/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber crown their Sonnenkönig on Untersberg
On the south face of Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany, Thomas and Alexander Huber have made the first ascent of Sonnenkönig. Alexander Huber reports.
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
28/10/2020 - Alpinism
Sani Pakkush south face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine
Climbing in alpine style, from 16 - 20 October 2020 French alpinists Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine made the first ascent of the virgin south face of Sani Pakush, a 6951m peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Welfringer reports about their important ascent which may well be only the second successful...
Picos de Europa: Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá add Vibora to Urdón
27/10/2020 - Climbing
Picos de Europa: Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá add Vibora to Urdón
Eneko and Iker Pou, climbing with Kico Cerdá, have made the first ascent of Vibora (180m, 8a) up the overhanging Urdón face close to Barranco de la Hermida in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
16/10/2020 - Alpinism
The King of Fanes added to Col Bechei, Dolomites, by Simon Kehrer, Manuel Baumgartner
The two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of The King of Fanes on the south face of Col Becchei (Dolomites).
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
11/10/2020 - Alpinism
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini
In spring 2019 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Backstage, a 350m multi-pitch with difficulties up to VIII+/R3 on the south face of Kleine Zinne / Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Messini reports.
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
09/10/2020 - Alpinism
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.
New Picos de Europa 8c multi-pitch by Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá
11/09/2020 - Alpinism
New Picos de Europa 8c multi-pitch by Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Kico Cerdá have made the first free ascent of Rayu (8c, 600m) on the south face of the Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.