427 News found
03/05/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck's dream We have republished an interview with Ueli Steck we carried out in February 2006 at the Piolet d’Or award, for which the Swiss alpinist had been nominated for his solo enchainment of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam.
16/04/2017 - Climbing
Franco Cookson discovers Nothing Lasts at Sandy Crag British climber Franco Cookson has made what is likely to be one of the most difficult and dangerous trad climbs in the UK with his first ascent of Nothing Lasts at Sandy Crag in Northumberland.
24/03/2017 - Climbing
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in This is Why The video portrait of British rock climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.
16/02/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the East Face of Cerro Murallon in Patagonia. The first ascent...
24/01/2017 - Alpinism
Happy Ending, new icefall in Val Trementina, Paganella Alessio Miori reports about the first ascent of Happy Ending, a new ice climb in Val Trementina (Paganella, Italy), first ascended on on 22-23/12/2016 together with the Luca Caldini, Giordano Faletti, Mattia Piffer and Stefano Vulcan.
25/12/2016 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni ambles up Ambrosia highball at Buttermilks, Bishop Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated the famous highball boulder problem Ambrosia at Buttermilks, Bishop, USA.
16/12/2016 - Alpinism
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner discover new ice climbs in Iceland Ice climbing: in February 2016 the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established a flurry of new ice climbs in Iceland, including Tröll leikhus at Austurárdalur, currently the hardest on the island.
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
21/11/2016 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...
12/09/2016 - Competitions
Tor des Géants, the start of the legendary race On Sunday 11 September 770 runners set off from Courmayeur for the 7th Tor des Geants, considered the most difficult mountain race in the world. This extraordinary challenge in the heart of the four giants of the Alps: 330km long and 24.000 meter elevation gain across Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
28/08/2016 - Competitions
Rock Master Festival 2016: Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein win the KO Boulder Contest On Sunday 28 August 2016 Adam Ondra won the KO Boulder Contest of the 30th Rock Master, beating in a thrilling final Germany's Jan Hojer and France's Jeremy Bonder, joint second. Victory in the women's event went to Katharina Saurwein from Austria who beat Italy's Giorgia Tesio and Serbia's Stasa...
27/08/2016 - Competitions
Romain Desgranges and Anak Verhoeven win the IFSC Climbing World Cup Lead at Arco Rock Master Festival 2016. At Arco Romain Desgranges (Fra) and Anak Verhoeven (Bel) win the 5th stage of Lead World Cup 2016. Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Jain Kim (Kor) place second, Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus) and Janja Garnbret (Slo) place third. Francesco Vettorata, the only Italian in the Final, finishes seventh.
12/08/2016 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese In mid-May French rock climber Caroline Ciavaldini made a rare ascent of Turkey Crack, an 8a trad climb at Cadarese. This is the story of her rare ascent.
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