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Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
24/04/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
British climber Shauna Coxsey and Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov have won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016, held yesterday and today at Kazo in Japan. Italy’s Michael Piccolruaz places a sensational second.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the...
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
Federica Mingolla reports of her 20/03/2016 ascent, together with Andrea Gaddi and Luca Schiera, of the classic multi-pitch rock climb Delta Minox up Pilastro del Scingino, Cavalcorto, Val Masino, Italy, established on 4 September 1988 by Tarcisio Fazzini, Livio Gianola,...
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over...
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli reach base of unclimbed north face
18/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli reach base of unclimbed north face
Italian mountaineers Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have reached the base of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. In the coming days they will begin their attempts at forging a new route up the unclimbed, 2000m high north face.
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young...
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
15/04/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
The expedition in Patagonia led by Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura to document the effects of over 100 years of climate change as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" has taken photos of Fitz Roy and Cerro...
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
11/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Ma belle ma muse', an 8c+ sports climb at Romeyer in France.
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
08/04/2016 - Climbing
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
On April 4, 2016 British climber Paul Pritchard summited the Totem Pole, the amazing obelisk in Tasmania where he suffered a nigh fatal fall in 1998. As a result of that incident Pritchard was left partially paralysed and now, 18...
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
08/04/2016 - Alpinism
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
On 16/02/2016 Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Freit dl mond (120m, M7, VI+), a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov...
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
06/04/2016 - Alpinism
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
On 17 March 2016 the alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have made the first ascent of Aller Simple pour Mars, a difficult new mixed climb up the Pic de l’Aurore face at Percé, Canada graded M7+ WI7- 190m.

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