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Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
08/05/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
Austrian rock climber Barbara Zangerl has repeated Achemine, the E9 trad climb at Dumbarton Rock established by Dave MacLeod in 2001 and famous for being Scotland’s first E9.
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
06/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located in the mountains, but inside a mountain, namely in the...
Yuji Hirayama big in Japan
04/05/2016 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama big in Japan
The 47-year-old climber Yuji Hirayama from Japan has repeated Minerva at Mizugaki, a boulder problem officially graded 8B+.
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
02/05/2016 - Climbing
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
British rock climber James McHaffie has made the first ascent of House of Talons, an E9 6c on Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, Wales.
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island, Canada.
Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training
26/04/2016 - Climbing
Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training
Video interview with British rock climber Jerry Moffatt, one of the driving forces in sports climbing and bouldering during the 1980's and 1990’s. The interview also features early footage of Moffatt training together with Ben Moon in their Sheffield cellar.
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Anak Verhoeven beats the Bronx at Orgon
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven beats the Bronx at Orgon
Anak Verhoeven from Belgium has made what might well be the first female ascent of the historic 8c+ sports climb Bronx at Orgon in France.
Bilibino big wall climbing in Siberia
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Bilibino big wall climbing in Siberia
The video of Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbing new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Siberia, Russia.
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
Riegler brothers redpoint Pandora at Mandrea di Laghel, Arco
12/04/2016 - Climbing
Riegler brothers redpoint Pandora at Mandrea di Laghel, Arco
On Sunday 13 March 2016 Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler repeated Pandora, the route they had established in 2008 up the Mandrea di Laghel face above Arco, Italy. This recent climb may well be the route’s first free ascent.
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
11/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France
Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Ma belle ma muse', an 8c+ sports climb at Romeyer in France.
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
08/04/2016 - Alpinism
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth
On 16/02/2016 Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Freit dl mond (120m, M7, VI+), a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...

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