3189 News found
08/05/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9 Austrian rock climber Barbara Zangerl has repeated Achemine, the E9 trad climb at Dumbarton Rock established by Dave MacLeod in 2001 and famous for being Scotland’s first E9.
06/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located in the mountains, but inside a mountain, namely in the...
04/05/2016 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama big in Japan The 47-year-old climber Yuji Hirayama from Japan has repeated Minerva at Mizugaki, a boulder problem officially graded 8B+.
02/05/2016 - Climbing
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate British rock climber James McHaffie has made the first ascent of House of Talons, an E9 6c on Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, Wales.
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island, Canada.
26/04/2016 - Climbing
Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training Video interview with British rock climber Jerry Moffatt, one of the driving forces in sports climbing and bouldering during the 1980's and 1990’s. The interview also features early footage of Moffatt training together with Ben Moon in their Sheffield cellar.
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven beats the Bronx at Orgon Anak Verhoeven from Belgium has made what might well be the first female ascent of the historic 8c+ sports climb Bronx at Orgon in France.
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Bilibino big wall climbing in Siberia The video of Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbing new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Siberia, Russia.
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.
12/04/2016 - Climbing
Riegler brothers redpoint Pandora at Mandrea di Laghel, Arco On Sunday 13 March 2016 Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler repeated Pandora, the route they had established in 2008 up the Mandrea di Laghel face above Arco, Italy. This recent climb may well be the route’s first free ascent.
11/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven frees Ma belle ma muse 8c+ at Romeyer in France Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has made the first ascent of 'Ma belle ma muse', an 8c+ sports climb at Romeyer in France.
08/04/2016 - Alpinism
New Dolomites mixed climb in Val Lasties by Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth On 16/02/2016 Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Freit dl mond (120m, M7, VI+), a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites.
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
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