Tauern Supercouloir on Gubachspitze in Austria climbed by Sepp Stanglechner, Hans Zlöbl
Austrian mountaineers Sepp Stanglechner and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Tauern Supercouloir on Gubachspitze in the Venediger Group.
On Sunday 13 March 2022 Sepp Stanglechner and Hans Zlöbl added a new mixed route to Gubachspitze in the Venediger Group in Austria, describing the outing as a "magnificent ice and mixed line in the Eastern Alps."
Stanglechner and Zlöbl set off at 5:00am from the Essener Rostocker Hütte mountain hut and skinned towards Gubachspitze while enjoying "a breathtaking sunrise in one of the wildest glaciated mountain landscapes in the Hohe Tauern." They then climbed five pitches, explaining "The highlight is a 50m long and only 40cm wide ice couloir. Something rarely found nowadays."
The mountaineers abseiled down the line; the five belays are equipped with pegs for the abseils. The route was repeated a week later by Hermann Blankenbach and Matthias Wurzer who added a further three pitches to finish on the ridge.
The route has been called Tauern Supercouloir and Zlöbl concluded "For routes like this, one usually has to drive to the Western Alps."
Tauern Supercouloir, Gubachspitze, Austria
Sepp Stanglechner, Hans Zlöbl 13/03/2022 P1 - P5
Hermann Blankenbach, Matthias Wurzer 19/03/2022 P6 - P8
M5, 80° max.
P1: M3, 60°, 50m
P2: M2, 40m
P3: M4, 80°, 50m
P4: M5, 40m
P5: M3 30m
P8: UIAA IV