The routes

Itaca nel Sole is possibily the most repeated route on Caporal in Valle dell'Orco. First ascended in June 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello with A2 aid on the upper section, it was freed in 2003 by Cristian...

Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.

L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...

L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...

An interesting route on the north ridge of Vierge du Flambeau (3244m) in the Mont Blanc massif which is good enough to rival any classic. It’s a perfect alternative: peaceful, isolated, on stellar rock, and just 45 minutes from the...

A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...

Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.

Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...

Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch.  The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.

A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.

Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.

Nocturnal Nightmare is an absolutely superb and highly recommend outing up the Pala di Fornolosa. Such an adventure to establish this from the ground with no idea of where we were going!

Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock. A quick team can start at circa 14:00 in the sun and top out in 3-4 hours.

Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections.

Highly satisfying, steep climb, exposed and demaning. The route follows some sections of old aid climbs, in particular through the great finishing corners. Some sections of poor but never dangerous rock.

A short but beautiful route, with a single 6a crux. Ideal for those new to climbing on the Mont Blanc.