The routes

57
Routes in archive
Jedi Master
Climbing routes
Jedi Master - Sergent
I/S2/6c+ max
Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.
L'isola che non c’è
Climbing routes
L'isola che non c’è - Aiguille Croux
7b+ max./7a obbl. RS3+
L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...
L'or du temps
Climbing routes
L'or du temps - Grand Capucin
7c+
L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...
La Tête du Dragon
Climbing routes
La Tête du Dragon - Vierge du Flambeau
7a
An interesting route on the north ridge of Vierge du Flambeau (3244m) in the Mont Blanc massif which is good enough to rival any classic. It’s a perfect alternative: peaceful, isolated, on stellar rock, and just 45 minutes from the...
Le Fou de l’Aiguille
Climbing routes
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi
ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
Le manteau de l'Eveque
Climbing routes
Le manteau de l'Eveque - Aiguille de l'Eveque
7a+
Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Les Intouchables
Climbing routes
Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul
ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...
Les Pèlerins et la Dame
Climbing routes
Les Pèlerins et la Dame - Aiguille de l'Eveque
6c/A0
Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch.  The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Ligne Blanche
Climbing routes
Ligne Blanche - Chandelle du Tacul
ED, 7a+ max
A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.
Mares
Climbing routes
Mares - Aiguille de la Brenva
ABO, 7c+ max, expo
Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.
Nocturnal Nightmare
Climbing routes
Nocturnal Nightmare - Pala di Fornolosa
E4 6a (6c/+)
Nocturnal Nightmare is an absolutely superb and highly recommend outing up the Pala di Fornolosa. Such an adventure to establish this from the ground with no idea of where we were going!
Obscured by Clouds
Climbing routes
Obscured by Clouds - Altrolato
7a
Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock. A quick team can start at circa 14:00 in the sun and top out in 3-4 hours.
Quintoppiù
Climbing routes
Quintoppiù - Altrolato
7a+
Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections.
Rataplan
Climbing routes
Rataplan - Parete della Grande Ala
7a+ max /RS2/I
Highly satisfying, steep climb, exposed and demaning. The route follows some sections of old aid climbs, in particular through the great finishing corners. Some sections of poor but never dangerous rock.
Rébuffat
Climbing routes
Rébuffat - Eperon des Cosmiques
D+, 6a max
A short but beautiful route, with a single 6a crux. Ideal for those new to climbing on the Mont Blanc.
Rébuffat
Climbing routes
Rébuffat - Aiguille du Midi
TD+, 6A max.
A historic route, probably the most popular on the entire face, which has by now become a crag above 3500m. The fourth pitch is fantastic, and the upper section offers numerous escape routes.


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