La Tête du Dragon - Vierge du Flambeau

Reach Courmayeur and take the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car.

From Punta Helbronner or Rifugio Torino, head briefly toward Dent du Géant, then descend into the initially gentle Combe de la Vierge. Stay far right (the glacier near the Petit Flambeau walls is heavily crevassed). Once level with the Vierge—with its north ridge in profile—traverse horizontally to the base of the wall. Allow 45 minutes.

GPS coordinates: Latitude: 45° 51' 23,85" N, Longitude: 6° 55' 33,348" E

P1: The Bergschrund section can be tricky. To facilitate the start, we placed two bolts: one at our starting point and another as low as possible inside the schrund, accounting for glacier retreat. After the first technical meters, follow good ledges easily to the right to a belay on an obvious terrace. 6a, 25m, 2 bolts

P2: A perfect system of parallel cracks running straight above the belay. 6b+, 25m

P3: Continue along the same crack system with less steepness. 6a+, 25m

P4: A transitional pitch along a comfortable ledge - perfect for a short break - with interesting views of the hanging seracs nearby and spectacular views of the route ahead. 2, 20m

P5: Start straight up the slab, then trend left to the belay. 6b+, 20m, 3 bolts

P6: A classic, textbook corner. 7a, 35m, 1 bolt

P7: From the belay, go immediately right to re-enter the base of the dihedral after a few meters. Finish by exiting via an off-width onto the flat summit of the north ridge buttress. 6b, 35m

P8: Transitional pitch along the horizontal ridge. 0+, 15m

P9: Climb the entire next step, mainly following perfect cracks with a slab move halfway up. 6c, 45m, 2 bolts

P10: Transitional pitch. Climb to the top of the boulder above the belay and descend behind it to the next anchor. 4, 10m

P11: Climb the off-width directly above the belay, then traverse a thin ledge (a miniature "Thank God Ledge" à la Half Dome ;-)) and finish straight up a wide crack to the summit. 6b+, 25m

Abseil descent. You can also start the day by rappelling after summiting the Vierge via the normal route along the south ridge."

All anchors are equipped with bolts and rappel rings (maillon rapide). On the pitches, bolts are placed only where no other protection is possible (8 bolts total). Take Camalots from #0 to #3 (doubles from #0.3 to #1). For the 7th and 11th pitches, a #5 may be found useful.