Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin
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Roberto Rossi
1 / 3
Planetmountain
This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the cracks accept plenty of pro. Although not as famous as Voyage selon Gulliver, many consider this route harder and more beautiful than its neighbour.
From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin, in front of the Touronde. There are two small corners at the base of the route capped by small roofs; climb the right-hand corner.
DescentAbseil down to the left of the route. Excellent belays.
GearA full rack of nuts and twin set of friends up to # 3. A hammer may be found useful for the aid pitch, especially at the start of the season.
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