Mares - Aiguille de la Brenva
Copia link
Matteo Giglio
1 / 10
Planetmountain
Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.
From La Palud, take the Punta Helbronner cable car to the Pavillon.
AccessFrom the Pavillon follow the panoramic path towards Belvedere della Brenva to coast a small crag with easy slab routes. Begin ascending just beyond this diagonally up meadows and scree to reach the start of the valley which descends from Col d'Entrèves. Walk up this, past the snow field, to the base of the rock face (lightweight crampons useful). Circa 1 hour from the Pavillon.
ItineraryThe route starts at an twin flak-crack that trends diagonally rightwards. Climb this (camming devices) almost to the end then return left, taking care on some of the loose flakes. Alternatively, ascend just to the left of the first belay but in this case some pegs are needed for protection (not in-situ). The route is protected by stainless steel Kong bolts and should not be confused with the route to the right which has Raumer bolts.
P1: 5c, 0 fix
P2: 7b+, 5 bolts
P3: 7c+, 5 bolts
P4: 6c+, 3 bolts
P5: 7b, 4 bolts
P6: 6a+, 3 bolts
P7: 6a, 1 bolt
P8: 5c, 1 bolt
P9: 5c, 0 fix
P10: 6c+, 2 bolts
P11: 6b+, 2 bolts
Abseil down the route using the excellent belays and skipping belay #3.
Gear2 60m ropes, 1 set di friends from #0.5 to #3 Camalot (two #.5 and #.75), 1 set of TCU from #0 to #3 Metolius, 1 set of small wires
See all photos
Comments
