Rognon Vaudano Mont Blanc, Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra

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Camalot - Rognon Vaudano

France>Haute-Savoie>Graian Alps>Mont Blanc>Rognon Vaudano

Niccolò Bruni, Mountain Guide

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Climbing pitch 4 of 'Camalot' on Rognon Vaudano, Mont Blanc (Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra 06/2024)

Niccolò Bruni

Beauty

First ascent

Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra, 20 & 27/06/2024

Niccolò Bruni, Mountain Guide

Orientation

Length

200m

Difficulty

TD- 6a+

Obligatory difficulty

Period

Sun after 11:00

Departure

Rifugio Torino, Punta Helbronner

Link

www.guidecourmayeur.com

Published on

08/07/2025

Route

Camalot on Rognon Vaudano, the pedestal below Dent du Géant is a beautiful route on Mont Blanc granite - gray in the first part and beautifully red in the second. Throughout its 200 meters it offers many fantastic cracks, some nice vertical walls, and difficulties that don't exceed 6a+. In short, it has everything it nedds to become a great classic in the future.

Getting there

Reach Courmayeur and take the Skyway cable car to Punta Helbronner.

Access

The approach is about 25/30 minutes from Punta Helbronner and the Torino mountain hut, following the trail that leads towards Aigille Marbrées, and then heading up towards the base of the peak. Start 20m to the right of C'era una volta il West. Single bolt with white sling clearly visibile from the base.

GPS position
DD: 45.859485, 6.943887
DMS: 45°51'34.1"N 6°56'38.0"E
UTM: 32T 340388 5080491

Itinerary

P1: 5b (4 bolts)
P2: 5a
P3: 5b (1 bolt)
P4: 6a (4 bolts)
P5: 6a+ (2 bolts)
P6: 5c (2 bolts)
P7: 6a+

Descent

Abseil down the route.

Gear

1 x 60m rope, 6-7 quickdraws, 1 set of cams BD C4 from 0.3 - 2, two sets of 0.4/0.5/0.75 for the last pitch.

Notes

The belays are equipped with 2 bolts, abseil rings and cord.