The routes

Great route, incredibly still unclimbed, hence the name "Unexpected surprise". This icefall is destined to become an instant classic. 60m ropes are needed (unless you want to split the second pitch and make an akward ice belay). It is worth...

Itaca nel Sole is possibily the most repeated route on Caporal in Valle dell'Orco. First ascended in June 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello with A2 aid on the upper section, it was freed in 2003 by Cristian...

Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.

Beautiful new 70/80m route just above the classic Inattesa sorpresa. This year, the particlarly mild winter days resulted in this drip forming on the rock bastion. A perfect match for Inattesa Sorpresa, or ideal alternative when this is too crowded....

On the "most beautiful limestone in the Ligurian Alps", ie, on the splendid south face o Rocca dei Campanili del Mongioie, Matteo Gambaro and Alessandro Cariga established La Fenice from the ground-up. The second pitch in particular, according to Gambaro, "is...

This icefall is comprised of 30m drip which breaches two vertical sections. The first, short and 80°, leads to the icefall proper: a vertical wall, demanding and never banal. The icefall is located in a narrow gorge receives the sun...

Nocturnal Nightmare is an absolutely superb and highly recommend outing up the Pala di Fornolosa. Such an adventure to establish this from the ground with no idea of where we were going!

Climbed ground-up by the mountain guides Daniele Macagno and Enrico Turnaturi in summer 2013. While not particularly long, the climbing is fairly demanding and the rock is almost always superb. Another plus point is the short approach: if the road that...

Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock. A quick team can start at circa 14:00 in the sun and top out in 3-4 hours.

Beautiful traditional route, athletic and sustained despite its short length. It was established by Giovannino Massari and Andrea Parodi in July 1982, in two attempts, using almost exclusively nuts (including the belays) except for 3 pegs on Pitch 1 and...

Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections.

Highly satisfying, steep climb, exposed and demaning. The route follows some sections of old aid climbs, in particular through the great finishing corners. Some sections of poor but never dangerous rock.

Great 5-pitch line established by Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti in September 2012.

The route explores the face which seems to have been unclimbed until now, and attempts to follow the large arete. While the lower section is demanding and almost vertical, in particular pitch 1, the angle then eases off and the...

Night falls on the Maritime Alps, the last light has been swallowed up by the surrounding mountains. We're snuggled in the warmth of out tent in a wild countryside, when man is no longer at the top of the food...

Beautiful rock climb in a superb setting on Rocca dei Campanili which climbs through a section of the wall which has not yet been developed. In view of its relatively low grade and the excellent pro, Trial is already a...